What to see in Viterbo in 2 days: complete itinerary

What to see in Viterbo in 2 days

Viterbo is the best-preserved medieval city in Lazio, perhaps in all Italy: an intact old town where popes took refuge in the 13th century, sulphur springs flow freely in the countryside, and Renaissance gardens rival Tuscan ones. An hour from Rome, it is an entirely different world.

Day 1: The medieval centre and the Popes

Morning (3-4 hours)

Start in the San Pellegrino Quarter, Europe's most intact medieval core. The grey peperino-stone houses with profferli (covered external staircases), towers, flowering courtyards and flagstone streets create a timeless atmosphere. Via San Pellegrino is the heart: every door hides a medieval courtyard.

Climb to Piazza del Plebiscito, the institutional centre with the Palazzo dei Priori (1460) and its frescoed council hall. The 15th-century cloister is a hidden surprise. From here you overlook the Valle Faul.

Continue to the Papal Palace (1266), built when the pontiffs fled Rome. The Papal Loggia is one of Italian Gothic's masterpieces, with interlaced columns framing the valley. Here in 1271 the longest conclave in history was held (33 months), ending only when Viterbo's citizens removed the roof.

Afternoon (3-4 hours)

Visit the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, Romanesque with a Gothic bifora bell tower. Inside, the Cosmatesque floor and Byzantine Christ in Majesty. Continue to the Civic Museum in the Convent of Santa Maria della Verità with Lorenzo da Viterbo frescoes (1469) rivalling Roman ones.

Explore the Pianoscarano quarter, the centre's most working-class area with medieval fountains (Fontana Grande is the most scenic), wash-houses and artisan workshops. Less touristy than San Pellegrino, it is where locals truly live.

Evening

Aperitivo in Piazza delle Erbe, the city's parlour surrounded by palaces with papal coats of arms. Dinner with Viterbo cuisine: acquacotta, lombrichelli (local pasta), fieno di Canepina.

Day 2: The hot springs and gardens

Morning (3-4 hours)

Devote the morning to the Bullicame Hot Springs, the free sulphur springs cited by Dante (Inferno, XIV). Water gushes at 58 degrees into natural pools open 24 hours, amid countryside. The Bagnaccio (3 km from centre) is the best-equipped site: pools at different temperatures, free entry.

More exclusive alternative: Terme dei Papi (paid) with its monumental outdoor pool fed by the Bullicame source.

Afternoon (3-4 hours)

Visit Villa Lante in Bagnaia (5 km from centre), one of Italy's most perfect Renaissance gardens. Designed by Vignola (1566), the Italian garden with chain fountains, water features and geometric planting is a masterpiece of harmony. Less famous than Villa d'Este in Tivoli, it is equally spectacular and far less crowded.

If time allows, continue to the Park of Monsters in Bomarzo (12 km), the 1552 Mannerist garden with giant grotesque sculptures carved from tufa. A surreal and unique place.

Evening

Return to the centre for a walk along the medieval walls (pedestrian path, 2 km). Final dinner in the San Faustino quarter with night views over the illuminated Valle Faul.

Practical tips

• The free hot springs are open year-round: bring a towel and flip-flops
• On September 3rd the Macchina di Santa Rosa (30-metre tower carried on shoulders) is UNESCO Heritage
• Viterbo is reachable by train from Rome in 90 minutes (FL3 line)
• Villa Lante requires booking on spring weekends

Further reading

• Where to stay in Viterbo
• Where to eat in Viterbo
• How to get to Viterbo