The Cammino di Francesco in the Holy Valley of Rieti

Few people know that around Rieti, in the green basin the locals call the Valle Santa, Saint Francis spent decisive moments of his life. Here, according to tradition, he set up the first nativity scene, and here he received important confirmations of his spiritual path. And yet, compared with Assisi or other Franciscan destinations, this valley remains little visited: its sanctuaries are intimate, immersed in the woods, often reachable on foot, and they offer an experience of quiet, widespread spirituality, far from the crowds and the big coaches.

The sanctuaries

The heart of the itinerary is the four sanctuaries that ring the Rieti basin. Greccio, clinging to the rock, is the place of the first nativity scene and still fascinates today with its cells, its living rock and the view that opens onto the valley. Fonte Colombo, set in a holm-oak wood, is tied to the drafting of the Franciscan Rule and safeguards the little chapel of the Magdalene with a very ancient fresco. La Foresta, near Rieti, is the convent of the miracle of the grapes and keeps a rustic atmosphere, with its vegetable garden and olive trees. Poggio Bustone, the northernmost, is the sanctuary of welcome, from which you enjoy a very wide view over the Rieti plain.

The itinerary unfolds as a loop linking these four places, passing through Rieti, a city that sits at the geographical centre of Italy and bears its symbol. Between one sanctuary and the next you walk on mule tracks, woodland paths and ancient ways that climb and drop along the flanks of the mountains enclosing the basin. It is not a flat route: this is genuine Apennine terrain, with oak and beech woods, springs, meadows and glimpses of the cultivated valley. The beauty lies precisely in this alternation between the silence of the walk and the pause in the convents, where the friars still welcome wayfarers and where you breathe an ancient peace.

Getting there

To get there, Rieti is the natural base: it is reached by car from Rome by heading up the Tiber valley and then the Sabina, or by the coaches that link the capital to the provincial town. From Rieti you can begin the loop in several directions. Those who don't want to walk the whole way can also reach the individual sanctuaries by car, since each is served by a road, and use them as starting points for shorter walks nearby. For those tackling the full trail it's best to organise overnight stays in the villages and welcome houses along the route, weighing up the stages carefully according to your own pace.

When to go

The best time runs from spring to late autumn. April and May offer vividly green woods, full streams and mild days, ideal for climbing without suffering the heat. October is perhaps the most evocative month: the beeches turn red and gold, the air is crisp and the low light sets the sanctuaries aglow. In these months you avoid both the summer sultriness and the winter snow, and above all you find the valley in its most authentic state, without the small crowds that gather around Christmas at Greccio for the nativity scene. Walking in spring or autumn, it's easy to find yourself alone on the trail, with only the sound of the wind and bells in the distance.

Practical tips

A practical tip: treat the sanctuaries as living places of worship, not just scenic stops. Check the opening times, which can vary and include midday closures, and keep respectful dress and behaviour in the sacred spaces. Bring shoes suited to mountain paths and enough water, because between one sanctuary and the next refreshment points are not always frequent. And allow yourself at least one long pause in one of the convents: it is by stopping, more than by walking, that this valley reveals its meaning.

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