The Way of Saint Benedict: from Norcia to Subiaco and Montecassino

Among Italy's walking routes, the Way of Saint Benedict is still a path for the few. It connects the three key places in the life of the saint who founded Western monasticism: Norcia, where he was born, Subiaco, where he lived as a hermit and founded the first monasteries, and Montecassino, where he wrote his Rule and where he is buried. It runs several hundred kilometres across the Umbrian and Lazio Apennines, far from the crowds of other more celebrated itineraries: those who walk it seek silence, spirituality and a genuine contact with valleys and villages untouched by mass tourism.

Setting off from Norcia

The start is Norcia, in the Valnerina, birthplace of Saint Benedict and a town wounded by the 2016 earthquake, which severely damaged the basilica dedicated to the saint and much of the old centre. To walk from here also means crossing the territories struck by the quake and seeing at close hand their slow rebirth: building sites, reconstruction and communities that endure. It is an intense departure, one that gives the walk a meaning that goes beyond the effort.

The route heads south, crossing Umbria and then Lazio, touching Apennine villages, river valleys and often solitary mountain areas. You walk among woods, pastures and ancient trackways, passing through small centres where the welcome is simple and pilgrims are few. Stage after stage you cross changing landscapes, from the stern mountains of the Valnerina to the more open valleys towards Lazio, in a succession of churches, hermitages and abbeys.

Subiaco

A central destination is Subiaco, in the Aniene valley, home to two extraordinary monasteries. The Monastery of Santa Scolastica is the oldest, while the Monastery of San Benedetto, known as the Sacro Speco, is built into a sheer rock face around the cave where the saint withdrew in solitude: the interiors are frescoed and the effect, suspended between sky and cliff, is unforgettable. Subiaco alone is worth the journey and is one of the spiritual hearts of the Way.

Montecassino

The finish line is the Abbey of Montecassino, rebuilt several times over the centuries and reconstructed after the destruction of the Second World War. Perched on the mountain that dominates Cassino, it is the mother house of the Benedictine order and holds the tomb of Saint Benedict. To arrive up here on foot, after days of walking, gives the final climb a very special value.

The Way is walked in stages, sleeping in religious houses, hostels and small lodgings along the route. It is a demanding itinerary, with Apennine ups and downs and isolated stretches, suited to those who already have a minimum of fitness and want to take several days over it. It can be tackled in its entirety or in sections, choosing for example the Umbrian stretch or the final one towards Montecassino.

Getting there

To reach the start and finish points you rely on transport: Norcia is reached by bus from the Umbrian cities, while Cassino, below Montecassino, is served by the railway between Rome and Naples, handy for ending or beginning the journey. Along the route, however, you move on foot, and it is wise to organise the stages and beds well in advance, because services are sparse.

The best time is spring, in April and May, with the meadows in flower and the days growing longer, or September, when the summer heat gives way and the air turns clear. In these months the temperatures are right for walking for hours and the Way stays quiet, travelled by few pilgrims: the sense of solitude and reflection is part of the experience. Summer at altitude can be hot and muggy in the valleys, and winter brings cold and snow to the higher stretches.

A practical tip: this Way is still poorly served compared with others, so plan the stages and book accommodation in advance, especially in the earthquake-hit areas where options are limited. Carry a guide or the up-to-date route tracks, well-worn shoes and water supplies, because between one village and the next the resupply points can be far apart.