The Vennbahn: a former railway across three countries in the Eifel

Old railways are the most generous gift the past can give a cyclist: almost imperceptible gradients, sweeping curves, tunnels and viaducts built for trains and now handed back to those who pedal. The Vennbahn is one of these, and moreover one of the longest on the continent, yet it remains surprisingly little frequented by anyone who does not live in the region. The reason is simple: it crosses a corner of Europe, the triangle between eastern Belgium, western Germany and northern Luxembourg, that few associate with cycling holidays.

The old railway

The historic line was built to carry coal and ore across the Eifel plateau, and its route still traces that curious geography of interwoven borders: at several points the path runs through Belgian territory even though it is surrounded by Germany, a legacy of old agreements on the ownership of the railway. You usually start from Aachen, an imperial city with an extraordinary cathedral, and from there descend southwards, soon entering the German-speaking East Cantons of Belgium. A natural stop is Monschau, a half-timbered town set in a narrow valley, among the most beautiful in the region.

The High Fens

The wild heart of the route is the High Fens, the Hohes Venn: a vast plateau of peat bogs and moorland, a protected natural area, where the climate is harsher and the landscape almost Nordic. You pedal alongside stretches of heather and wooden boardwalks that protect the fragile soil. Further on you reach Sankt Vith, then descend towards greener valleys until you brush against Luxembourg, where the Vennbahn links up with other trails heading towards Troisvierges. Along the way the old stations, crossing-keepers' houses and bridges tell the industrial story of the line, and there is no shortage of rest stops created from the railway buildings themselves.

The route

Its nature as a former railway makes the Vennbahn ideal for almost everyone: the surface is largely paved and well kept, the gradients gentle and steady, without sharp pitches. Riding from north to south and then back up, you alternate stretches of slight climb towards the plateau with long, relaxing descents, but nothing that calls for a climber's legs. It is a route that lends itself perfectly to families and to those who want to cover the miles without suffering, even on non-specialist touring bikes or e-bikes.

Getting there

To get there, Aachen is well served by German trains and close to the airports of Cologne and Düsseldorf; on the southern side, Luxembourg offers another convenient access point. The region is well covered by public transport that in many cases takes bikes, useful for arranging the return without having to ride the whole route again.

The best time is high summer, in June, and early autumn, in September. The Hohes Venn plateau has a cool, changeable climate even in summer, so these months offer the best balance between long days, pleasant temperatures and a lower chance of persistent fog. They are also seasons when the greenway, though loved by locals at weekends, stays far from the crowds of the classic tourist destinations: on weekdays you often ride in almost total solitude.

A practical tip: the Eifel weather is famously fickle, with sudden rain and drops in temperature even in the height of summer, especially on the plateau. Always carry a rain jacket and something warm, check the forecast before tackling the more exposed stretches of the Hohes Venn, and make the most of the old stations and village cafés to shelter and warm up. Dressed in layers and taking your time, you will discover one of the most rewarding and least touristy greenways in Europe.

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