Italy's Trans-Siberian: a heritage train between Sulmona and Roccaraso
Italy's Trans-Siberian is a scenic railway that climbs to almost Alpine altitudes between Sulmona, the Altopiani Maggiori and Roccaraso, in Abruzzo. Saved from closure and travelled by heritage trains, it crosses high plateaus and Apennine villages in a slow, spectacular journey far from the more beaten tourist destinations.
Foto: Zitumassin (Public domain) — Wikimedia Commons
They call it Italy's Trans-Siberian, and it is one of the most poetic ways to discover inland Abruzzo. It is the Sulmona-Castel di Sangro railway, a mountain line built in the late nineteenth century that climbs to some of the highest altitudes on the Italian rail network, crossing wind-swept plateaus, gorges and Apennine forests. Withdrawn from regular service and long at risk of closure, it was saved and now lives again thanks to the heritage trains that run it on weekends, turning a journey into a slow travel experience in its own right.
The train journey
The journey usually starts from Sulmona, an elegant city of art at the foot of the Morrone, famous for its sugared almonds and its historic centre. From here the train begins to climb, and within a few stations the landscape changes radically: you leave the Valle Peligna and its cultivated fields to enter the Altopiani Maggiori d'Abruzzo. The most celebrated stretch crosses the Cinquemiglia plateau and reaches the Rivisondoli-Pescocostanzo station, one of the highest in Italy, set in a landscape of pastures and mountains that dress in snow in winter and in flowers in summer.
The stops are destinations in themselves. Pescocostanzo is one of the loveliest villages in Abruzzo, with its square, its artisan workshops of lace and wrought iron, and its Renaissance architecture. Roccaraso is the well-known mountain resort, gateway to the plateaus. Further south the line continues toward Castel di Sangro, at the entrance to the Alto Sangro and near the Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise National Park. Along the way, tunnels, viaducts and panoramas follow one another, offering views that fully justify the nickname inspired by the great Russian railway.
A story of redemption
The appeal of this railway also lies in its history. Built in an age when bringing a train through these mountains was a bold feat of engineering, the line was for decades a vital link for otherwise isolated communities. When regular service was suspended, the railway seemed destined for abandonment, like so many minor Italian lines; instead it was recovered thanks to the passion of enthusiast associations and the heritage railways project, which turned an endangered heritage into an opportunity for slow, sustainable tourism. To board those vintage carriages today is also to take part in a small story of redemption, in which gentle mobility becomes a tool for breathing life back into the inland regions.
The way to experience this itinerary is unusual, because the heritage trains run on scheduled dates, often tied to seasonal themes such as the flowering, the autumn foliage or the winter markets. It is therefore worth checking the timetable of departures in advance and booking your ticket, because seats on the vintage trains are limited and much sought after by enthusiasts. To reach the starting point, Sulmona is well connected by train with Rome and with Pescara, which lets you arrive comfortably without a car and rely entirely on rail travel for the whole journey.
When to go
The recommended months for this itinerary are June, July and December, each with a different character. In June and July the plateaus are in the full swing of mountain summer: the flowering meadows, the cool air even when the lowlands swelter, and the long days make the journey luminous and ideal for anyone seeking respite at altitude away from the crowded coast. December, on the other hand, is the month of snow, when the Trans-Siberian crosses a white landscape and the villages come alive with Christmas atmosphere, offering the charm of the heritage train in the heart of winter. These are periods that, though appreciated, keep the experience far from mass tourism, because the very format of a limited-seat heritage train spreads visitors out and preserves the quiet of the small villages it crosses.
Practical tips
A practical tip: dress in layers and bring something warm even in summer, because at the altitude of the plateaus temperatures drop noticeably and the wind can be biting; in winter, snow clothing is a must to enjoy the stops in the villages. Arrive in Sulmona early so as not to miss the departure and, if you can, choose a window seat on the scenic side. Above all, take the time to get off at the stops and walk through the villages: the Trans-Siberian is not just the train, but everything it frames along its slow climb into the mountains.
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Practical info
When is the best time to visit Italy's Trans-Siberian?
The recommended time is June, July and December, when it is less crowded.
Where is Italy's Trans-Siberian?
Italy's Trans-Siberian is located in Alto Sangro and Altopiani Maggiori, Abruzzo.
