The Magna Via Francigena, on foot from Palermo to Agrigento

The Sicily that almost no one talks about is not that of the crowded beaches and temples, but the one that lies in between: wheat fields as far as the eye can see, isolated farmsteads, perched villages where time moves slowly. The Magna Via Francigena crosses precisely this forgotten heart, linking on foot Palermo, on the north coast, to Agrigento, on the southern one. It is a walk that cuts across the island from sea to sea and that stays little trodden because classic trips to Sicily remain glued to the coasts, ignoring the interior.

The stages

The itinerary unfolds over nine stages and retraces old royal roads and drovers' tracks that once joined the two shores of the island. You set off from Palermo, from the Cathedral, and soon leave the city behind to climb inland. The stages pass through villages that mean little to most people and that instead hold history and identity: you touch centres such as Santa Cristina Gela and Corleone, in the Palermo hinterland, before continuing towards the agricultural heart of the island. The walk passes through villages such as Prizzi, Castronovo di Sicilia, Cammarata and San Giovanni Gemini, crosses the Platani valley and reaches Sutera, one of the most beautiful villages perched on a rocky spur, before finally descending towards Agrigento and its Valley of the Temples, a finish line that opens once again onto the sea.

The landscape

In between there is the landscape that gives meaning to everything: expanses of wheat that turn gold in summer, rolling hills, farmsteads and manor farms, fountains and old rural churches. It is a rural, farming Sicily, where the stages end in real villages, inhabited by people who live off agriculture and who welcome the walker with the curiosity of those who see few of them. This very rarity of passage is part of the charm: you are not a tourist among other tourists, you are often the only traveller entering the village that day.

Getting there

Getting here is convenient thanks to the two ends of the walk: Palermo and Agrigento are both well connected, and the former has an airport and station that make it an excellent starting point. The walk is waymarked and is done stage by stage, sleeping in the villages along the route, where accommodation designed for pilgrims can be found. You do not need a car: indeed, a car here would be a contradiction, because the beauty lies in crossing the island at a slow pace, stopping in the villages. For the return transfers, regional trains and buses connect the main centres. Get yourself the walk's credential and find out in advance about the stages and the stopover points, because in the small villages beds need to be arranged ahead of time.

When to go

The best time is spring, March and April, when the fields are still green before the harvest, the blooms light up the hills and the heat of the interior is still manageable. The other ideal window is October, with temperatures dropping after the scorching summer and a golden light over the already harvested fields. Absolutely avoid the peak of July and August: in the Sicilian interior the heat is relentless and walking becomes dangerous. By choosing the shoulder season you not only walk better, but you find an island that is even quieter, far from the summer flow of the coasts.

A practical tip: in the interior, water and shade cannot be taken for granted, so set off early in the morning, carry water supplies and a hat, and plan the stages to reach your destination before the hottest hours. Open yourself up to meeting the people of the villages: in this inland Sicily hospitality is spontaneous, and a chat in the square or a meal in a farmstead can become the finest memory of the whole walk.

Practical guides

• How to get to Palermo: flights, trains, ferries and cars
• What to see in Palermo in 2 days: itinerary through markets, mosaics and street food
• Where to stay in Palermo: neighborhoods, accommodation and practical tips
• Where to eat in Palermo: street food, markets and Sicilian cuisine guide