The Monti Simbruini loop, among beech woods and high plateaus
A loop in the Monti Simbruini Park, an hour from Rome: high-altitude grasslands, beech woods, the springs of the Aniene and ancient Benedictine monasteries. A green, silent mountain range, very close to the capital yet far from the crowds, where you walk across plateaus that feel like another world.
Agordal, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Just over an hour's drive from Rome lies a mountain range that few Romans actually frequent: the Monti Simbruini. The name comes from Latin and means, roughly, beneath the rains, because these peaks capture water and give it back in springs, streams and lush beech woods. It is a regional park of grassy plateaus, dense woods and silence, where even at weekends you easily find space to walk in solitude. And yet important rivers rise here and the Benedictine monks left deep marks: a combination of nature and history that deserves a slow-paced loop.
The route revolves around the villages of Filettino, Vallepietra, Subiaco, Jenne and Camerata Nuova, each with its own access to the mountains. One of the most beloved spots is the plateaus of Camposecco and Campaegli, vast high-altitude flatlands surrounded by beech woods, where horses and cattle graze freely and where in winter people ski with skins. You reach the springs of the Aniene, the river that then flows down towards Rome, in a cool, shady corner that stays green even in summer. The peaks, such as Monte Cotento and Monte Autore, offer panoramas ranging from the Apennines to the sea on clear days.
The monasteries
The historical side is just as strong. Above Subiaco stand the Benedictine monasteries, in particular the Sacro Speco of Saint Benedict, built sheer against the rock and frescoed in every corner, and the monastery of Santa Scolastica. These are places that are worth the journey in themselves and that can be slotted in as a cultural stop at the start or end of the hiking loop. Not far off, at Vallepietra, is the sanctuary of the Santissima Trinità, set into the mountain, the goal of an ancient popular pilgrimage. To walk in the Simbruini therefore means alternating grasslands, woods and these extraordinary places of stone and faith.
Getting there
To get there, from Rome you take the motorway or the main roads towards Subiaco, which is the natural gateway to the park; from here you climb towards the various villages and plateaus along mountain roads that require a little care but reward you with constant views. A car is practically indispensable for reaching the plateaus and the trailheads, because public transport is limited. Once you've arrived, you move on foot following the park's network of waymarked paths, which lets you build loops of varying length suited both to families and to fitter walkers.
When to go
The best time is summer, in particular between June and September. In these months the plateaus are green and in flower, the beech woods offer shade and coolness even when the city is stifling, and the springs of the Aniene become a perfect spot to cool off. Precisely because they are such a cool mountain range so close to Rome, the Simbruini are ideal for escaping the summer heat without endless kilometres, and despite this they stay uncrowded: those looking for the sea ignore these plateaus, so the trails remain peaceful. In June and September especially, you also avoid the small comings and goings of the midsummer picnics and enjoy the mountains in their silence.
Practical tips
A practical tip: at altitude the weather changes quickly, so set off early and always carry a rain jacket and something warm in your backpack, even in summer, because on the plateaus the wind can pick up and the temperature can drop suddenly. Make the most of the morning for walks and keep the afternoon for the monasteries of Subiaco, which are at their best in the warm light of late day. And if you love the small flavours of the mountains, stop in the villages to buy cheeses and local produce: they are part of the slow, genuine way of living these mountains.
Practical guides for Udine
Practical info
When is the best time to visit The Monti Simbruini loop?
The recommended time is June, July and September, when it is less crowded.
Where is The Monti Simbruini loop?
The Monti Simbruini loop is located in Monti Simbruini Park, Lazio.
