Skip Hallstatt: Bad Aussee, the Secret Heart of the Salzkammergut

Bad Aussee: the Salzkammergut the Austrians Don't Want to Share

Hallstatt has become the distorted symbol of contemporary tourism: a village of 750 inhabitants receiving over a million visitors a year, with tourist buses blocking the roads, drones buzzing over the rooftops and an exact replica built in China. Bad Aussee, just twenty kilometres away but in an entirely different state of mind, is the geographic and spiritual heart of the Salzkammergut — the UNESCO World Heritage region of lakes and salt mines — and is where the Austrians themselves go when they want to escape the world.

The Heart of the Salzkammergut

Bad Aussee sits literally at the geometric centre of the Salzkammergut, surrounded by three alpine lakes — Altausseer See, Grundlsee and Toplitzsee — each with its own distinct character. The Altausseer See is perhaps the most beautiful: crystal-clear turquoise water beneath the rocky walls of the Loser, with a flat path circling it in an hour and a half of gentle walking. The Grundlsee is the largest lake in Styria, nicknamed the "Styrian sea," with wooded shores and waters warm enough to swim in during summer. The Toplitzsee, reachable only on foot or by boat from the Grundlsee, is surrounded by legend: at its depths lie crates of counterfeit banknotes that the Nazis threw in during the last days of the war.

What to See and Do

- Altausseer See — Alpine lake with a circular path, mountain huts and swimming in summer. The view of the Dachstein at sunset is unforgettable.

- Altaussee Salt Mine — Open to visitors, with the incredible story of the artworks (including Michelangelo's Madonna of Bruges) hidden here by the Nazis and recovered by the Monuments Men.

- Grundlsee and Toplitzsee — A boat excursion through three successive lakes, each wilder and more remote than the last.

- Loser Panoramastraße — A panoramic road climbing to 1,600 metres with 360° views of the Alps. Starting point for hikes on the Dachstein.

- Bad Aussee old town — Buildings in Styrian style, fountains, traditional craft workshops. The atmosphere is that of an Austria from another time.

- Narzissenfest — In late May, the Narcissus Festival transforms Bad Aussee: flower-decorated floats on the lake, processions in traditional costume and millions of wild narcissi in the surrounding meadows.

The Monuments Men and the Mine

The Altaussee salt mine is no ordinary mine. During the Second World War, the Nazis hid over 6,500 works of art looted from across Europe there: Michelangelo's Madonna of Bruges, the Ghent Altarpiece by the Van Eycks, works by Vermeer, Rembrandt and thousands of other masterpieces. The story of their rescue by the Monuments Men was turned into a Hollywood film. Today the mine is open to visitors and the guide recounts this extraordinary story in the very galleries where the works were stored.

Living Traditions

Bad Aussee is one of the capitals of traditional Styrian culture. The Dirndl (the traditional women's dress) was born here in its modern form. During the Narzissenfest and local festivals, the inhabitants wear traditional costumes not for tourists but for themselves — it is a living identity, not museum folklore. The craft shops in the centre sell hand-sewn Dirndl and Lederhosen, Styrian ceramics and the famous Lebkuchen (gingerbread) from the Lewandofsky pastry shop.

Where to Eat

The Salzkammergut's cuisine is alpine and hearty. The Bräuwirt, Bad Aussee's oldest inn, serves Tafelspitz (Viennese boiled beef), liver dumplings in broth and apple strudel. At the Seewiese, on the Grundlsee, you eat freshly caught trout with buttered potatoes and a view of the lake. For a snack, the alpine huts on the hiking trails serve Kaiserschmarrn (sweet shredded pancake with plum compote) and fresh milk from the cows.

How to Get There

Bad Aussee is reached by train from Salzburg (about 2.5 hours with a change at Attnang-Puchheim) or from Vienna (about 4 hours). By car from Salzburg it is about 90 minutes of scenic road through the Salzkammergut. The village is compact and can be explored on foot; a car, bicycle or local bus is needed to reach the lakes and hiking trails.

When to Go

Summer (June–September) is perfect for the lakes and hiking. Late May for the Narzissenfest. Autumn has extraordinary colours and the alpine huts offer their last refreshments before closing for winter. Winter is magical for cross-country skiing and snow walks, with frozen lakes and snow-capped mountains.