The parasite museum in Meguro: 300 specimens (and an 8.8-metre tapeworm) in Tokyo

In Shimomeguro, in a residential neighbourhood about a dozen minutes' walk from Meguro station, there is an anonymous building that houses the only museum in the world devoted entirely to parasites. The Meguro Parasitological Museum was founded in 1953 on the initiative of Satoru Kamegai (1909-2002), a physician and parasitologist who after the war had opened a clinic in Meguro to treat parasitic infections. Kamegai funded the museum out of his own pocket and imposed a rule that still holds today: free admission. The current premises date from 1993; on his death management passed to a foundation, supported by donations and the sale of merchandise.

The rooms

The rooms open to the public are two floors with about 300 specimens on display, a tiny fraction of the collection: the basement store holds around 60,000 samples, together with 50,000 papers and 5,000 scientific books. The first floor is devoted to the "diversity of parasites", with cabinets explaining what parasitism is and showing specimens taken from fish and from human beings. The second floor focuses on the relationship between parasites and the human body and traces the history of parasitology in Japan.

The tapeworm

The most famous piece is a tapeworm 8.8 metres long, extracted from the body of a man who had eaten raw salmon sashimi. To convey the sense of its length, next to the case hangs a rope of the same measure that you can pick up: it is the most direct way to grasp what nearly nine metres of worm really means. In 2022 even Bill Gates stopped by to see it. The museum shop, which helps keep it open, sells T-shirts with the tapeworm, parasite-shaped keyrings, rulers and parasitology books.

The subject, evidently, is not for everyone, and that explains why the rooms stay almost empty: you only get there on purpose, and on weekday mornings you can walk both floors without crossing paths with almost anyone. Its location off the tourist trail helps: it is not a stop you stumble upon while strolling, but a detour sought out by those who have read about the place and want to see it. It is worth knowing in advance: more than one visitor advises against a heavy breakfast before going in.

How to get there

How to get there: the reference station is Meguro, served by the JR Yamanote line (eight stops from Tokyo Station) as well as by the Namboku, Toei Mita and Tokyu Meguro subways. From the west exit it is about 12 minutes on foot along Meguro-dori, heading west; alternatively you can take the bus from the same exit and get off at the Otori-Jinja Mae stop, a minute from the museum. The address is 4-1-1 Shimomeguro, Meguro-ku. Hours: Wednesday to Sunday, from 10:00 to 17:00, closed Monday and Tuesday and during the New Year holidays. Admission is free, but donations are welcome. The display panels are in Japanese, with QR codes linking to explanations that can also be translated into other languages via smartphone; a guide in English is also on sale. As it is a small independent operation, it is worth checking the up-to-date times before going.

Related guides: Unusual Japan: destinations and itineraries off the tourist trail.