Kagurazaka, the old geisha district behind Shinjuku

Kagurazaka climbs a hill in Shinjuku ward, a few minutes from the skyscrapers of the station and the traffic of Iidabashi. The main street, Kagurazaka-dori, slopes upward and is fairly ordinary by day: shops, a patisserie, the odd sign in French. The reason the climb is worthwhile is not the main street, but what opens off its sides, where the narrow, paved lanes preserve the layout of the days when geisha worked here.

The history

The history explains a great deal. In 1792 the Zenkokuji temple moved to its present position, on the flank of the hill, and around an important temple there always grows a monzenmachi, a town-in-front-of-the-temple made of teahouses and establishments. During the Meiji era (1868-1912) Kagurazaka became one of Tokyo's main hanamachi, with ryotei (traditional restaurants), assignation houses and geisha residences packed into the lanes behind the slope. At its peak around 700 geisha were registered here. Today about thirty remain, alongside an unusual concentration of French chefs: hence the nickname of "little Paris". Among the most recognisable lanes are Kakurenbo Yokocho and Hyogo Yokocho, with their paving and walls of black-lacquered wood. The cobblestones are no whim: they were also laid to stop geisha in kimono from muddying themselves on rainy days, and the area, spared by the great Kanto earthquake of 1923, thus kept its street fabric.

The temple and around

The heart of the district is the Bishamonten Zenkokuji temple, recognisable by the red gate on the main street. Founded in 1595 and tied to the Nichiren Buddhist school, it is dedicated to Bishamonten, deity of fortune and protector; the present main hall was rebuilt in 1971, while the statue of Bishamonten is a Cultural Property designated by the city of Shinjuku. It is an active temple, not a museum, and works well as a starting point for the walk. A little further up, the Akagi-jinja shrine is worth a detour, rebuilt by architect Kengo Kuma with glass and natural materials: a contemporary take on a Shinto shrine, with an Italian cafe inside. At the foot of the slope, near the station, the Canal Cafe looks out from its terrace over a canal that was once part of the moats of the Tokugawa castle.

The lanes

The practical advice is simple: do not stop at the central street. Take the stone stairways and the side lanes behind the hill, where the pace drops sharply and you come across wooden doors, small restaurants and workshops that cannot be seen from the main street. It is here that the character of the former geisha district is still legible in the urban layout, not in a reconstruction for tourists. To find your way it is best to get lost on purpose: the area is compact and you always come back towards the slope.

How to get there

How to get there: the most convenient station for the lanes is Kagurazaka, on the Tokyo Metro Tozai line (exit 2). For the temple, Iidabashi is often more direct, served by the JR Sobu and by three subway lines (Tozai, Yurakucho, Namboku): from the west exit you take the slope and within a few minutes you are in front of Zenkokuji. A third option is Ushigome-Kagurazaka, on the Toei Oedo line. The area is walked on foot; better during daytime hours or the early evening, when the restaurants light up their signs but the lanes stay quiet. In summer, around the temple, the Kagurazaka Matsuri is held, with the market of hozuki lanterns and the Awa Odori dances along the main street.

Related guides: Unusual Japan: destinations and itineraries off the tourist trail.

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