Lake Mergozzo and Montorfano: a quiet oasis beside Lake Maggiore

Lake Mergozzo is one of those places that mass tourism skipped almost by chance. A stone's throw from Lake Maggiore and its crowded resorts, this small, deep sheet of water has stayed off the noisy circuits mainly thanks to one far-sighted decision: the ban on motorised navigation. Without the roar of outboard motors, the water stays crystal clear and the atmosphere is that of a mountain lake, not a tourist riviera.

The village

The natural starting point is the village of Mergozzo, gathered on the southern shore. The lakefront is shaded by a very old, monumental elm, the symbol of the town, and the historic centre preserves narrow lanes, stairways and stone houses. From here you get the finest view over the water and over Montorfano, the rounded mountain that closes the horizon. Mergozzo has been tied for centuries to the quarrying of white granite, and this history of quarries recurs all along the itinerary.

Towards Montorfano

The classic walk is the loop that follows part of the lakeshore and climbs towards Montorfano. As you ascend you come upon the old granite quarries, silent today, where you can still see the marks of the stonecutters' work and the abandoned blocks. Montorfano granite was used on important building sites, and walking these trails means reading the history of the land carved into the rock. At the top and around the mountain, views open out over both Lake Mergozzo and, further off, Lake Maggiore.

Another place not to miss is the Romanesque church of San Giovanni Battista on the lower slopes of Montorfano, one of the most striking Romanesque buildings in the area, isolated among the meadows and itself built of local granite. It is worth the detour for the peace of the place and to understand how the mountain's stone shaped the architecture of the whole region.

Those who don't want to walk can simply enjoy the shores. The grassy, pebbly beaches of Mergozzo are among the cleanest in the lakes area, ideal for a swim or for a lazy day with a view. The lake is small, so even a trip by canoe or SUP lets you cross it at your leisure, with no boat traffic.

Getting there

Getting there is easy. Mergozzo lies near Verbania and Gravellona Toce, well served by the motorway and the Simplon trunk road. The most convenient railway station is Verbania-Pallanza, from which you can reach the village in a few minutes. Once on site it's best to get around on foot or by bicycle: the village is small and the trails start right from the centre. Between Mergozzo and Verbania there is also a cycle-pedestrian path running alongside the Toce river, handy for those arriving by bike from the surrounding area.

When to go

The best time to visit is late spring or early autumn. May and June bring green meadows, blossoms and water already mild but not yet besieged; September offers clear days, warm light and an almost deserted lake, perfect for the last swims or for the walks up to the quarries without the summer heat. These are precisely the months when Mergozzo reveals its most authentic character, far from the crush that in July and August can reach even the quietest shores.

A practical tip: set off early in the morning if you want to walk towards Montorfano and the quarries, because the exposed trails can heat up in the middle of the day. Bring shoes with good soles, because the polished granite gets slippery, and keep your swimsuit always within reach: after the climb, a dive into the cleanest lake in the area is the best reward.

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