Gran Sasso and Campo Imperatore: trekking in the little Tibet

They call it the little Tibet, and you only need to arrive once to understand why. Campo Imperatore is an immense plateau, suspended at around 1,800 metres in the heart of the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park, in Abruzzo. A treeless expanse of prairie, swept by the wind, where the eye runs free as far as the crests of the Corno Grande, the highest peak of the Apennines. It is a place of vast silences, where the very idea of a crowd simply does not exist.

What makes Campo Imperatore so particular is its scale. It is not the classic Alpine valley boxed in between slopes: it is an open plateau, almost a high-altitude steppe, where horses roam free and herds of cattle graze wild. To walk here is to cross the widest of horizons, with the pale rock of the massif changing colour at every hour of the day. The sense of emptiness and immensity is rare to find in Italy.

The trails

The point of reference is the historic hotel and the observatory of Campo Imperatore, reachable by car along the road that climbs from Fonte Cerreta, or by the cable car that leaves from the base. From here the finest trails open up. The plateau itself lends itself to easy, contemplative walks, suitable even for the unfit, simply following the tracks through the grass with the Corno Grande always ahead. Those seeking something more demanding find instead the high-mountain environment of the massif: the climb toward the Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi, perched on a panoramic ridge, and the more mountaineering routes toward the summits, which require experience, equipment and a sure foot. Not far off is also Fonte Vetica, with its plain and the echo of the tales of shepherds who lived here for centuries.

The plateau is also a place of memory. It was here that Mussolini was held prisoner and then freed in 1943, and the hotel preserves the memory of that episode. But above all it is a landscape shaped by transhumance and shepherding, still alive, which give the area products such as mountain cheeses and the famous arrosticini skewers.

Getting there

To reach it, the reference is L'Aquila, from which you climb toward Assergi and the start of the road to the plateau. By car the ascent is scenic and spectacular; alternatively the Gran Sasso cable car carries you up to altitude in comfort. Once at the top, you move on foot: there is no internal transport, and that is precisely its strength. It is best to set out well equipped and self-sufficient, because the support points are few and far apart.

When to go

The right time is summer and early autumn. June brings green prairies and blooms, July the longest and most stable days, September a clear light and the first golden hues. In these months the snow has withdrawn and the trails are passable, whereas for much of the year the plateau stays snowbound and impassable. Yet even in high season the vastness of the place makes you feel alone: people disperse into the enormous space, and a few steps are enough to meet no one again. It is a kind of solitude that elsewhere, on the more fashionable mountains, has by now become impossible to find.

Practical tips

A practical tip: the weather at Campo Imperatore changes fast and the wind can be strong and icy even in summer. Set off early in the morning, bring warm layers, a windproof jacket, water and something to eat, because up there you will find nothing along the way. Check the forecast before climbing and avoid the plateau when the afternoon storms roll in, frequent in the warm months. If you can, stay until sunset or arrive at dawn: when the light softens and the horses are silhouetted against the sky, the little Tibet becomes one of the most magical places in the entire Apennines.

Practical guides for Como

• Where to stay in Como
• What to see in Como in 2 days
• Where to eat in Como
• How to get to Como