Garfagnana and Orecchiella: a loop between the Apennines and the inner Apuan Alps
A rugged, little-travelled valley between the Apuan Alps and the Lucca Apennines, made of woods, mountain pastures and Este fortresses. The Garfagnana with the Orecchiella park is an authentic mountain Tuscany, ignored by mass tourism.
Foto: Orangevale (CC0) — Wikimedia Commons
Heading up the Serchio valley north of Lucca, you enter a world that has very little to do with the Tuscany of the postcards. The Garfagnana is a narrow, deep valley, closed to the west by the jagged walls of the Apuan Alps and to the east by the wooded ridges of the Apennines. It is a land of real mountains, of chestnut groves, mountain pastures, streams and ancient fortresses, crossed by few travellers because it lies off the classic routes. It is precisely this marginality that makes it one of the most genuine and peaceful areas of the region.
Castelnuovo and the Orecchiella
The valley's point of reference is Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, a small historic capital dominated by the Rocca Ariostesca, so called because the poet Ludovico Ariosto stayed there as governor on behalf of the Este of Ferrara, who long controlled this territory. From here you can reach the villages scattered on the slopes and the finest natural destinations. Towards the Apennines you climb up to the Orecchiella Park, a protected area of meadows, forests and peaks with a visitor centre, wildlife enclosures and the Botanical Garden, an ideal base for walks among the woods and the wide high-altitude pastures.
The valley loop
The area's ideal loop brings together the two faces of the valley. On the Apennine side, besides the Orecchiella, there are the rocky walls of the Pania di Corfino and the villages of San Romano and Villa Collemandina; on the inner Apuan side, spectacular scenery opens up, such as the Grotta del Vento, a deep karst cavity that can be visited with a guide, and the Fortezza delle Verrucole above San Romano, an Este defensive complex restored and once again telling the military history of the valley. Further down, the Ponte della Maddalena is worth a stop, the famous hump-backed medieval bridge known as the Devil's Bridge, near Borgo a Mozzano, a natural threshold into the Middle Serchio Valley. Between one destination and the next the landscape alternates centuries-old chestnut groves, mills, Romanesque parish churches and stone villages perched on the slopes.
How to get there
To get around the Garfagnana the car is the most convenient solution, given how spread out the places are and the terrain. There is however the Lucca-Aulla railway, which climbs the Serchio valley and stops at Castelnuovo di Garfagnana and other towns, useful for reaching the area without driving and then basing yourself for walks on foot. The roads towards the Orecchiella and the passes are scenic but winding, and in some high-altitude stretches they can be closed or difficult in the winter months. Once in the area, you move between the points of interest by car and walk on the many trails waymarked by the CAI, choosing loops suited to your fitness.
When to go
The best time runs from the start of summer to autumn. June and July offer cool woods and flower-filled meadows in the pastures, a refuge from the heat that oppresses the plain, while September brings the first colours and clear air, as well as the season that prepares the chestnut harvest, the valley's true gastronomic symbol along with farro. In these months Tuscany's better-known destinations are crowded, while here between the Apennines and the inner Apuan Alps you mostly meet local hikers and often walk in solitude. Winter is harsh and snowy at altitude, striking but better suited to those who seek the cold mountains and know how to equip themselves accordingly, since many high-valley roads and trails become demanding.
A practical tip: give yourself several days and use Castelnuovo or one of the valley's villages as a base, because the distances on mountain roads take time and rushing would spoil the point of the trip. Bring hiking boots, warm layers even in summer for the high-altitude walks, and cash, since in the smaller villages you can't always pay by card. And let yourself be tempted by the mountain cuisine in the taverns and farm stays: farro, chestnuts, mushrooms and cheeses tell the story of the Garfagnana better than any guidebook.
Practical guides for Como
Practical info
When is the best time to visit Garfagnana and Orecchiella?
The recommended time is June, July and September, when it is less crowded.
Where is Garfagnana and Orecchiella?
Garfagnana and Orecchiella is located in Garfagnana, Tuscany.
