The Pratomagno loop: from the Casentino to the ridge of the cross

The Pratomagno is one of those mountains that Tuscans know and tourists ignore. It is the long ridge that separates the Casentino from the upper Valdarno, a gentle grassy spine culminating in a great iron cross visible from afar. No jagged peaks or glaciers: here the charm lies in the wind-swept ridge meadows, in the dense beech woods on the slopes and in a silence that, just a few dozen kilometres from Florence and Arezzo, seems impossible. Precisely because it lacks a single famous attraction, the Pratomagno stays off the mass circuits: you go there to walk and breathe, not to tick off a list.

The cross on the ridge

The symbolic point is the Croce del Pratomagno, planted on the main ridge just below the summit of the massif. From up there your gaze takes in, on one side, the Casentino with its forests and the Alpe di Catenaia, on the other the Valdarno with Chianti and, on clear days, the Apuan Alps and the Apennines. The summit meadow is broad and undulating, perfect for a long stop with your sandwich, and on summer weekends it gathers the local hikers, but on weekdays and out of season you often walk alone.

The Casentino side is the richest in history. It is worth setting off from, or making a stop at, the Romanesque parish churches that dot these valleys: the Pieve di Romena, near Pratovecchio, is one of the most beautiful Romanesque churches in Tuscany, with its carved capitals, and a short way off stands the Castle of Romena, tied to the memory of Dante. Climbing up you pass through villages like Stia and Pratovecchio, good bases for sleeping and eating the dishes of the Casentino, from potato tortelli to mushrooms.

The Valdarno side

From the Valdarno side you climb up instead from villages such as Loro Ciuffenna, a charming village crossed by a stream, or Castelfranco di Sopra, near the striking Balze, badlands of sand and clay that look like a small canyon. Several trails set off from these lower altitudes and climb through the woods up to the ridge: it is a demanding but steady climb, rewarded by the sudden opening of the panorama when you emerge from the beech wood and reach the meadow.

The classic loop touches the summit ridge and both slopes, but the Pratomagno lends itself to many different itineraries, short or long, making use of the network of trails waymarked by the Alpine Club. Those who don't want to work too hard can drive up to the passes and the highest meadows, from where the cross is reached with short walks along the open ridge.

How to get there

To get there it's best to use the car: you come in from Arezzo or from the Autostrada del Sole, exiting into the Valdarno, then climb mountain roads towards the passes that cross the ridge. Public transport serves the valley-bottom villages but not the ridge, so to move about freely the car is almost indispensable.

When to go

The ideal time is late spring and early autumn: June brings the flower-filled meadows and the tall grass on the ridge, while September and October tinge the beech woods copper and gold, with clear air and excellent visibility over both slopes. These are months when the heat of the plain is behind you and the few hikers concentrate at weekends: choose a weekday and you'll have the mountain almost all to yourself. Midsummer can be sultry on the climb, and winter often brings snow and strong wind on the exposed ridge.

A practical tip: on the Pratomagno ridge there is no shelter and the wind can be biting even in sunshine, so always bring a windproof jacket and enough water, because along the summit meadows you'll find no springs. Set off early, so you tackle the climb in the cool and reach the cross when the morning light is best for the great panorama.

Practical guides for Arezzo

• Where to stay in Arezzo
• What to see in Arezzo in 2 days
• Where to eat in Arezzo
• How to get to Arezzo