Cycling route through Marmilla and the Giara di Gesturi

There is a Sardinia that has nothing to do with the sea: the agricultural, nuragic Sardinia of Marmilla, a region of gentle hills in the south-centre of the island where tourism barely reaches. No coast, no holiday resorts, but fields of wheat, olive trees, small stone villages and an astonishing density of ancient traces. For anyone on a bike it is a peaceful paradise: near-empty secondary roads, human-scale distances and a landscape that tells thousands of years of history.

The Giara di Gesturi

The symbol of the region, and the highest point of the route, is the Giara di Gesturi, a great basalt plateau that rises above the hills like a dark table. It is famous for the Giara horses, the small wild ponies that live free on the plain among the cork oaks and the temporary pools called paùli. Climbing onto the Giara and following its trails among the cork trees, hoping to spot the horses grazing or drinking, is an experience that alone justifies the trip. The plateau is a world apart, silent and wild, suspended above the cultivated countryside.

The nuragic traces

All around, Marmilla offers some of the most important remains of Sardinian prehistory. The absolute landmark is the nuragic complex of Barumini, the Su Nuraxi nuraghe, a UNESCO site and one of the best-preserved nuragic monuments on the island. The whole region, though, is scattered with lesser nuraghi and with domus de janas, the tombs carved into the rock that folk tradition attributed to fairies, along with tucked-away villages like Gesturi itself and the villages of the Alta Marmilla. You cycle quite literally through an open-air museum, with an ancient site behind every hill.

Difficulty

In practical terms this is a moderately demanding itinerary, suitable even for cyclists who are not super-fit if you pace the stages. The roads are mostly low-traffic secondary tarmac, with possible gravel connections towards the Giara and the archaeological sites, so both a touring bike and a gravel bike work well. The landscape is hilly: plenty of gentle ups and downs from one village to the next, with a sharper climb when you tackle the ascent to the Giara plateau. There is none of the severe elevation gain of the Sardinian mountains, but no long flat stretches either, so the rhythm stays varied and pleasant.

To get there, the reference point is the interior north of Cagliari, from which you climb towards Marmilla and Barumini. It is best to pick a village as a base, perhaps near the Giara, and move in loops exploring the sites and villages nearby; the modest distances let you tour at leisure and dedicate time to the visits.

When to go

The best time runs from spring, from April, to autumn, through October. In spring the hills are green and the wheat fields still tender, the climate is mild and the Giara's pools are full: it is also the moment when it is easiest to see the horses. In autumn the countryside takes on warm tones and temperatures become pleasant again. In these months Marmilla stays practically empty of tourists, because those who come to Sardinia then are still heading for the coast: here you find open roads and villages living at their authentic farming pace. High summer is best avoided because of the heat and the parched countryside.

A practical tip: dedicate at least half a day to the Giara, leaving the bike and walking the plateau's trails, because the horses are spotted with patience and silence, not by rushing past. Then make the most of the small villages to taste the bread and local produce and to exchange a few words with the inhabitants: in a Sardinia so little visited, spontaneous hospitality is one of the finest memories you will bring home.

Practical guides for Cagliari

• Where to stay in Cagliari
• What to see in Cagliari in 2 days
• Where to eat in Cagliari
• How to get to Cagliari