Terme di Fordongianus: The Romans' Hot River in Sardinia

In Sardinia there is a place where the Tirso river runs hot. Not lukewarm: hot, at 54 degrees Celsius, almost scalding in certain spots. In Fordongianus, a small town in the province of Oristano, the Roman baths of Forum Traiani preserve pools carved into basalt rock nearly two thousand years ago. Along the riverbank, some natural pools accessible to the public still allow you to bathe in the same waters that warmed Roman legionaries stationed in Sardinia.

Roman Pools and Free Pools

The archaeological site of the Roman baths has a small admission fee, but along the bank of the Tirso, just steps away, natural pools exist where thermal water flows directly into the river. Access is free and unattended. Pool temperatures vary depending on the mix of thermal and river water: in some spots you find pockets of near-hot water, in others the waters blend to more moderate temperatures. The landscape is austere and beautiful, with red basalt rocks and Roman ruins in the background.

Fordongianus: The Town of Red Basalt Houses

The town itself is worth a visit: traditional houses are built from reddish basalt, the same volcanic stone that outcrops everywhere in the area. The old town has preserved an almost timeless atmosphere, with elderly residents sitting on doorsteps and tended gardens in courtyards. The Museum of Thermal Culture inside the Roman site tells two thousand years of hydrothermal history. Few tourists reach Fordongianus, which remains outside the major Sardinian circuits.

When to Go and How to Get There

The baths are best enjoyed in spring and autumn, when the climate is mild and the river flow is regular. In summer, the Sardinian heat adds to the water temperature, making bathing less pleasant. The town is about 35 kilometers from Oristano, reachable by car. Regular public transport connections are scarce. Bring reef shoes and towels, and something to eat: the town's hospitality infrastructure is minimal.