The Gessi Cycle Route Along the Vena del Gesso Romagnola

There's an Apennine that looks like no other, a handful of kilometres south of the Via Emilia between Imola and Faenza. It's the Vena del Gesso Romagnola, a ridge of pale rock that rises from the green of the hills like a rampart, formed of crystalline gypsum that glitters in the sun. It is karst landscape in the full sense, with sinkholes, swallow holes, caves and rock faces, today protected by a regional park and a candidate for international recognition, and yet almost unknown to anyone not from the area. While the Romagna of tourism crowds the coast, here you pedal in an almost Alpine silence.

Among the white cliffs

The joy of touring the Vena del Gesso by bike lies precisely in the constant contrast between the gentle cultivated hills and the sudden appearance of the white cliffs. The roads to follow are the secondary ones linking the little Apennine settlements of the area, from Brisighella to Riolo Terme, from Casola Valsenio to the valleys of the Senio, the Sintria and the Lamone. Brisighella is the natural point of reference: a beautiful village crowned by three rocky pinnacles bearing the fortress, the clock tower and the sanctuary, with the famous covered via degli Asini. From here itineraries branch off toward the interior, rising and falling among the badlands and the gypsum walls.

Along the way you come upon the emblematic sites of this karst world. There's the area of the Grotta della Tanaccia near Brisighella, there's the Parco Carnè above Brisighella, which is the gateway to the park with its trails and visitor centre, and there are the valleys where the gypsum reveals itself in sudden walls. Riolo Terme adds its own fortress and its spa tradition, while Casola Valsenio, the village of herbs and forgotten fruits, is the ideal base for exploring the easternmost part. This isn't an itinerary to be downed in one go along a single embankment: it's rather a network of roads from which to build your own loop according to your legs.

In the saddle

Here, indeed, the terrain is in charge. Unlike the flatland cycle routes, this is the Apennines proper: the surface is largely asphalt on lightly trafficked roads, with the possibility of gravel stretches and cart tracks for those on gravel bikes or mountain bikes, but above all the elevation gain is constant. It's an endless up and down from one valley to the next, with climbs that can be demanding to crest a ridge. Don't expect a restful ride: this is an itinerary for those with a bit of leg and a taste for earning their views. Anyone preferring a lighter effort can choose shorter routes and stay on the valley floors.

When to go

The right window is wider than for the flatland destinations: from April to October the area is at its best. In spring, between April and May, the meadows are in bloom, broom sets the slopes alight and the air is cool for tackling the climbs; in autumn, right up to October, the woods take on colour and the raking light makes the white of the cliffs stand out. This way you avoid both the full heat of summer, when these exposed slopes turn scorching, and the crowds, which in any case never really reach these parts. This is inland Romagna, living on slow, village tourism, light years from the beaches.

A practical tip

A practical tip: check ahead about the cave visits. Some cavities in the park can only be seen with guides or on set days, and it would be a shame to pass alongside this underground world without descending into it at least once. Plan the loop so as to end the day in Brisighella, where a stop at the table over a glass of wine and a plate of tradition, perhaps the local olive oil that is a small excellence here, is the perfect way to recover the energy spent on the climbs.

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