Chiavenna: Crotti, Pizzoccheri and the Alpine Soul of the Spluga Valley

The gateway to the Valchiavenna

Where the Valtellina forks and two valleys point toward the Alpine passes of the Spluga and Maloja, Chiavenna occupies a position that has defined its destiny: a crossroads of roads, peoples and trade since Roman times. But beyond its geography, Chiavenna has something found nowhere else: the crotti, natural caves in the rock from which blows the "sorel", a constant cold air current that makes them perfect for storing wine and cheese. Around the crotti a unique gastronomic and convivial culture has grown, making this town of seven thousand inhabitants one of the most authentic food-and-wine destinations in the Italian Alps.

What to see in Chiavenna

The old town

Chiavenna has a compact, well-preserved historic centre, with Renaissance palaces, arcaded streets and small squares where life moves at an Alpine pace. Piazza Pestalozzi, the main square, is the beating heart, with its cafés and town hall. Via Dolzino, the shopping street with its historic shops, food stores and bookshops, is one of the most pleasant streets for a stroll in the whole Valtellina.

The crotti

The crotti are Chiavenna's defining feature. These caves in the prehistoric landslide from the Pizzo del Paradiso exploit the sorel — air at a constant temperature of 4–8°C — for ageing cheeses and preserving wine. Many crotti have become restaurants or social clubs, where you eat outdoors among granite boulders in an atmosphere that has no parallel anywhere. Crotto Ombra and Crotto Al Prato are among the best known and most frequented.

The Collegiata di San Lorenzo

The Romanesque collegiate church, with its separate baptistery, is the main monument. The Treasure of the Collegiata, housed in the Museum, includes the celebrated Pace di Chiavenna: an eleventh-century Gospel cover in gold, gems and enamel, a masterpiece of medieval European goldsmithing.

The Park of the Giants' Cauldrons

Behind the old town, a natural and archaeological park protects the "marmitte" — huge circular cavities carved into the rock by Quaternary glaciers through the rotational movement of boulders trapped in the water. The largest are several metres in diameter and impressively deep. The park, free to enter, is explored via a marked trail of about an hour through the lush vegetation that has colonised the smoothed rocks.

The Paradiso and the Acqua Fraggia waterfalls

The botanical garden of the Paradiso, on the hill above the centre, offers a panoramic view over the valley and contains Alpine plants and the ruins of a castle. The Acqua Fraggia waterfalls, at Borgonuovo (3 km from Chiavenna), plunge more than 150 metres in two spectacular leaps visible from the road.

What to eat

Chiavenna is a gastronomic paradise. The Valchiavennasca cuisine is one of the richest along the entire Italian Alpine arc.

• Pizzoccheri — buckwheat noodles with cabbage, potatoes, melted butter and Casera cheese, the emblematic dish of the Valtellina
• Sciatt — crispy buckwheat fritters filled with melted Casera, served on a bed of chicory
• Bresaola della Valtellina IGP — thinly sliced with olive oil, lemon and rocket
• Bitto — the definitive alpine pasture cheese, DOP, aged for up to ten years or more
• Bisciola — a festive sweet bread with walnuts, dried figs and raisins, typical of the area

For the full experience, book a table at one of the crotti: eating pizzoccheri in the open air among granite boulders with a glass of Inferno from the Valtellina is one of the most authentic gastronomic pleasures of northern Italy.

How to get there

Chiavenna is about 120 km from Milan. By car, follow the SS36 della Spluga along Lake Como to Colico, then the SS37 to Chiavenna (about 1 hour 45 minutes). By train, the Milan–Colico–Chiavenna line is direct and scenic, with hourly departures (about 2 hours 30 minutes). The station is in the town centre. In summer, Chiavenna is the base for the Spluga (Switzerland) and Maloja (Engadina) passes.

When to go

May to October for outdoor activities and the crotti. Summer is cool and pleasant (Chiavenna is at 333 m but the surrounding mountains shelter it from the heat). Autumn is perfect for the colours and the cuisine. Winter has Alpine charm but many crotti close. The sagra dei crotti in September is unmissable, with the extraordinary opening of private crotti, music and tastings.

Beyond Chiavenna

Those with more time can explore the Val Bregaglia toward the Maloja, the Val San Giacomo toward the Spluga, or the thermal baths at Prè Saint Didier. The Valchiavenna cycle path, flat and scenic, links Chiavenna to Lake Como. Chiavenna is the kind of place where you arrive for lunch and end up staying for the weekend — blame the crotti, the pizzoccheri and that Alpine light that makes everything sharper.