Instead of Lake Garda: Lake Iseo and Monte Isola, Lombardy's Best-Kept Secret

Lake Iseo: the Italian lake that hasn't surrendered to mass tourism

Lake Garda is the largest in Italy and, unfortunately, also its most commercialised: Sirmione swamped by tour groups, Gardaland drawing millions of families, paralysing traffic on the Gardesana in summer. Just 30 kilometres to the west, Lake Iseo offers a completely different lake experience: smaller, more intimate, more authentic, and with an ace up its sleeve that Lake Garda cannot match — Monte Isola, the largest inhabited lake island in Europe.

Monte Isola: a world apart

Monte Isola is an island of 4.5 square kilometres that rises from the middle of the lake like a green dome. Cars are banned here (except for residents with permits): you get around on foot, by bicycle or on the electric bus. A complete circuit of the island on foot takes about 3 hours and passes through borghi where time has stood still. Fishermen's nets dry in the sun as they did centuries ago, olive trees grow abundantly and the view of the Alps is incomparable.

What to see

- Peschiera Maraglio: the main borgo on Monte Isola, where the ferry docks. Medieval lanes, artisan workshops and restaurants with terraces overlooking the lake.

- Sanctuary of the Madonna della Ceriola: at the top of the island (600 m), reachable by a walk of about an hour. The 360° view over the lake and surrounding mountains is worth every drop of sweat.

- Sensole and Siviano: tiny borghi where tourism has not yet arrived. Here you can buy fish directly from the fishermen.

- Lovere: on the northern shore of the lake, listed among the Borghi più belli d'Italia. The Accademia Tadini houses a surprising art collection with works by Bellini, Parmigianino and Hayez.

- Riserva delle Torbiere del Sebino: a protected natural area with stretches of water, reedbeds and an incredible variety of water birds. Walkable on wooden boardwalks.

- Piramidi di Zone: spectacular geological formations: columns of earth topped by erratic boulders, created by erosion. A short trail winds through them.

Franciacorta: bubbles within reach of the lake

The southern shore of Lake Iseo is the gateway to Franciacorta, the wine-growing region that produces Italy's finest metodo classico sparkling wines. Dozens of wineries offer tastings and guided tours among vineyards that mirror the lake. Combining a morning on Monte Isola with an afternoon in Franciacorta is an experience Lake Garda simply cannot offer.

Where to eat

Lake fish is the star: the sardina essiccata di Monte Isola (actually an agone) is a Slow Food Presidium, prepared according to a tradition going back to the 15th century. The trattorie of Peschiera Maraglio serve fried perch, pike-perch and risotto with tench. In Iseo, the town on the shore, you will find good pizzerias and restaurants with more varied menus.

Getting there

Lake Iseo is reached by train on the Brescia–Iseo–Edolo line (trains every hour, about 25 minutes from Brescia). By car, from the A4 motorway (Palazzolo or Ospitaletto exit) you arrive in 20 minutes. For Monte Isola, frequent ferries run from Sale Marasino or Sulzano (5 minutes on the water, about 4 euros return).

When to go

April–June is the ideal period: blossom, mild temperatures, a peaceful lake. July is still manageable; August brings more visitors but nothing comparable to Lake Garda. September–October is perfect for Franciacorta (harvest time) and autumn colours. Lake Iseo is proof that Italy still has hidden treasures where tourism coexists with real life.