Instead of Cinque Terre: Portovenere, Gateway to the Gulf of Poets
Colourful tower-houses on the harbour, the cliff-top Church of San Pietro, and Byron's cave. UNESCO heritage like Cinque Terre — without the chaos.
Foto: malex.org (CC BY-SA 4.0) — Flickr
Portovenere holds UNESCO status alongside Cinque Terre and Palmaria island, yet receives a fraction of the visitors. The reason is simple: there is no train station. You arrive by car, by ferry from La Spezia, or on foot along the path that descends from Riomaggiore. This small logistical barrier has preserved a fishing borgo that remains genuinely authentic.
The tower-houses — the palazzata — form an unbroken wall of colour facing the harbour: yellow, pink, orange, terracotta. These are the same houses that in the Middle Ages served as defense against Saracen pirates, with narrow windows and lower floors left without openings. Today the ground floors are workshops, restaurants and cafés, and the harbour is still full of fishing boats.
The Church of San Pietro is built on a rocky promontory at the far end of the borgo: the black and white marble stripes, the bell tower silhouetted against sky and sea, the waves crashing against the rocks below — the image carries an almost mystical power. Byron used to swim to the cave beneath the church — the Arpaia, now called Grotta Byron — after crossing the gulf on open water.
The Doria Castle commands the borgo from above and offers a panorama stretching from the Ligurian coast to the Apuan Alps. The ascent follows a steep stairway through the lanes, and from the terrace the view rewards every step.
Palmaria island — five minutes by ferry — is a paradise for nature lovers: coastal paths, hidden coves, the Grotta Azzurra (sharing a name with Capri's famous grotto but not its crowds) and intact Mediterranean vegetation. In summer the ferries run every half hour.
Eating in Portovenere is an authentically Ligurian experience: stuffed mussels (the local cozze filled with bread, garlic and parsley), Recco focaccia, marinated anchovies, trofie al pesto. Prices are above the Ligurian average but below those of Cinque Terre.
Portovenere is reached from La Spezia by ferry (thirty minutes) or by bus (twenty minutes). Parking in summer is limited: better to arrive by public transport. From here you can reach Cinque Terre by ferry, in a scenic coastal crossing that is already an experience in itself.
Practical guides for La Spezia
Practical info
When is the best time to visit Instead of Cinque Terre?
The recommended time is April, May, June, September and October, when it is less crowded.
Is Instead of Cinque Terre crowded?
Instead of Cinque Terre is a very quiet destination compared with the more touristy ones.
Where is Instead of Cinque Terre?
Instead of Cinque Terre is located in Portovenere, Liguria, Italy.
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