Palmaria Island: Porto Venere from the Sea and Trails Among Fortresses

Palmaria, the secret garden of the Gulf of Poets

Separated from Porto Venere by a hundred metres of water, Palmaria island is the largest in the Spezzino archipelago and forms part, together with Tino and Tinetto, of the UNESCO site "Porto Venere, Cinque Terre and the Islands". And yet, while Porto Venere is overrun by tourists and the Cinque Terre strain under the weight of visitors, Palmaria remains surprisingly quiet.

The island is a rectangle of Mediterranean scrub, maritime pines and disused military fortresses that can be explored in a day's walk, uncovering panoramas that rival any postcard view of Liguria.

Getting there

Boats depart from the Porto Venere jetty every 15–30 minutes in summer, approximately every hour in low season. The crossing takes 5 minutes. Direct boats also depart from La Spezia (approximately 20 minutes). The cost is modest (€5–8 return). The island is pedestrian: no cars, no scooters.

The island's trails

The complete circular route of the island takes approximately 3–4 hours including stops, covering around 8 kilometres with moderate elevation gain (approximately 300 m). The highlights:

• Forte Umberto I — the large fortification at the island's summit (188 m). Built in the late nineteenth century to defend the Gulf of La Spezia, it offers a panoramic view across the entire gulf, from the Tuscan coast to the Apuan Alps.
• Forte Cavour — on the south face, now home to an environmental education centre. From here the trail descends toward the open sea.
• Western flank — the wild side of the island, with cliffs dropping straight to the open sea and views of Corsica on clear days. The trail here is narrower and requires a sure footing.
• La Grotta dei Colombi — a prehistoric cave on the south face where Neolithic finds were discovered. Reachable only by sea or with an equipped descent.

The trail is marked with red markers. The difficulties are concentrated on the western stretch, where the route is exposed and in places narrow. Trekking boots are essential.

The beaches

Palmaria's beaches are few but of great quality:

• Pozzale beach — the main beach, 20 minutes from the landing jetty. White pebbles, turquoise water, a small kiosk in summer. Can be busy on August weekends.
• Cala della Fornace — smaller and more sheltered, ideal for snorkelling among the rocks.
• Terrizzo — the landing point, with a small pebble beach and a direct view of Porto Venere's church of San Pietro.

Snorkelling along the island's rocky shores is excellent: the rocky seabeds host saddled bream, octopuses, blennies and colourful nudibranchs. Visibility is outstanding, especially in the morning before the wind picks up.

Porto Venere seen from Palmaria

The most beautiful view of Porto Venere is not from Porto Venere. It is from Palmaria. From the Terrizzo jetty or from the trail climbing toward Forte Umberto I, the panorama of the church of San Pietro — perched on a rocky point with the open sea behind it — is one of the most iconic views in Liguria. At sunset, when the stone ignites in orange, the view alone is worth the boat fare.

Where to eat and sleep

On the island there is a single restaurant and guesthouse, the Locanda Lorena, which also offers a few rooms. The cooking is Ligurian maritime: anchovies, stuffed mussels, trofie with pesto, mixed fried fish. Booking is advisable in high season.

For those wishing to sleep on the island, options are very limited: the Locanda and a couple of rooms to let. The majority of visitors stay in Porto Venere or La Spezia and visit the island on a day trip.

When to go

The ideal months are April, May, June, September and October. In spring the Mediterranean scrub is in bloom and the trails are deserted. September offers the warmest sea and the best light for photography. July and August are possible but the beaches fill up at weekends.

What to bring

• Trekking boots for the circular route
• Swimsuit and mask for the beach stops
• Water and a packed lunch (only one refreshment point on the island)
• Sun cream and a hat: the trails are often exposed
• A light jacket for the evening boat back

Flora and fauna of the island

Palmaria hosts a lush Mediterranean vegetation: holm oaks, maritime pines, strawberry trees and a rich understorey of heather and cistus. In spring wild orchids dot the grasslands between the disused forts, and the scent of scrubland mingles with the salty sea air. The island is an important staging post for migratory birds: in autumn and spring, raptors, warblers and shrikes can be spotted resting in the trees before continuing their journey.

Among the rocks live wall lizards, and in the warmer months the common gecko emerges at sunset on the walls of the abandoned forts. At sea, beyond the rocky fish, bottlenose dolphins that frequent the Gulf of La Spezia can be spotted, especially in the early morning when boat traffic is reduced.

Palmaria is proof that sometimes crossing a hundred metres of water is enough to leave mass tourism on the other side. An island that is perfectly accessible yet utterly authentic, a single boat ride from one of the most photographed borghi in Italy.