Where to eat in Udine: frico, cjarsons and Friulian osterias
Guide to the flavours of Udine: from crispy frico to cjarsons, the best osterias, trattorias and venues between Piazza Matteotti and the Friulian old town borghi.
Udine: gastronomic capital of Friuli
Udine is a city that lives through its osterias. Piazza Matteotti (called Piazza San Giacomo by locals) is considered the most beautiful salon in Friuli, and around this square concentrates a culture of aperitivo and dining that rivals much larger cities. Friulian cuisine is a unique crossroads of Alpine, Central European and Mediterranean traditions.
Must-try dishes
Frico
Friuli's signature dish: Montasio cheese melted and crisped, in either the simple version (just cheese, ultra-crispy) or soft version (with potatoes and onion). Every osteria serves it as a starter or main with polenta.
Cjarsons
Carnia ravioli with a surprising sweet-savoury filling: ricotta, mountain herbs, raisins, cinnamon and cocoa. Dressed with smoked melted butter and grated smoked ricotta. A dish that exists in no other Italian cuisine.
Musét e brovade
Friulian cotechino served with turnips macerated in grape pomace. A powerful, unmistakable winter dish.
Gubana
Spiral pastry filled with walnuts, raisins, pine nuts, grappa and orange zest. The most iconic Friulian dessert.
Where to eat
Piazza Matteotti and via Mercatovecchio
The heart of Udine's social life. Osterias under the porticoes serve ombre (glasses of wine) and tajut (the local aperitivo) with Friulian cicchetti. Perfect for an osteria crawl at aperitivo hour.
Via Zanon and Duomo area
Elegant streets with wine bars and refined restaurants. Higher prices but excellent quality.
Borgo Grazzano
Working-class neighbourhood with authentic trattorias and honest prices.
The Udine aperitivo ritual
In Udine, aperitivo is an institution called "tajut": a glass of white Friulian wine with cicchetti. The osteria crawl — three or four venues in sequence, one tajut at each — is the perfect way to know the city.
Budget tips
- A tajut with cicchetto costs 2-4 euros
- Borgo Grazzano trattorias serve full lunches for 12-15 euros
- Frico with polenta costs 7-10 euros at osterias
- Village festivals offer Friulian dishes for 5-8 euros