Where to eat in Taormina: granita, seafood and Sicilian flavours with Etna views

Local specialties and traditional dishes

Taormina, Sicily's terrace overlooking the sea and Mount Etna, offers a cuisine that blends peasant tradition, the freshest seafood, and Arab, Norman, and Greek influences. Eating here is an experience that engages all the senses.

Among first courses, pasta alla Norma is the symbol of the Catanese table: rigatoni with fried aubergine, tomato sauce, grated salted ricotta, and fresh basil. Spaghetti with sea urchins, when available, is a delicacy to savour with your eyes closed. Pasta with sardines (with wild fennel, pine nuts, raisins, and saffron) is a masterpiece of sweet-savoury balance. Maccarruni with pork sauce and caponata complete the starters and first courses.

Fresh fish stars in the main courses: swordfish alla ghiotta (with capers, olives, and tomato), sarde a beccafico (stuffed with breadcrumbs, pine nuts, and raisins), grilled octopus, and mixed fried fish. For meat lovers, falsomagro (stuffed beef roll) is a Sicilian Sunday dish.

Best trattorias and osterias

Corso Umberto, Taormina's main promenade, is lined with restaurants, but many are touristy and expensive. The best trattorias are found in the side alleys and lanes descending towards the medieval quarter.

Look for venues with handwritten menus, without laminated photos of dishes. Family trattorias in the upper part of the village, towards Castelmola, offer generous portions at honest prices. Restaurants with panoramic sea terraces charge a premium for the view, but dinner at sunset with Etna in the background is worth every cent.

In the Mazzaro beach area, some kiosks and seaside restaurants serve freshly caught fish with great simplicity: grilled, with a drizzle of oil and lemon.

Sicilian breakfast

Breakfast in Taormina is an institution: almond, mulberry, or pistachio granita with warm, soft brioche. Seek out bars that make granita by hand, with a grainy texture and intense flavour. It is a ritual that alone makes the trip worthwhile.

Street food and snacks

Sicilian street food is among the best in the world. In Taormina you will find arancini (fried rice balls filled with ragu, or with butter, ham, and mozzarella), cannoli with fresh sheep's ricotta and chocolate chips, and tavola calda with rosticceria: cartocciate, cipollina, small pizzas.

Do not miss brioche with gelato (a brioche bun sliced and filled with artisanal ice cream) and granita with whipped cream. In the alleys, look for shops selling pane cunzato: bread dressed with tomato, anchovies, oil, oregano, and caciocavallo cheese.

Local wines

Etna wines are enjoying a moment of international glory. Etna Rosso DOC, from Nerello Mascalese grapes, is an elegant red with mineral and volcanic notes, often compared to Pinot Noir for its finesse. Etna Bianco DOC, from Carricante, is fresh and savoury, perfect with fish.

In Taormina many restaurants have wine lists dedicated to Etna producers. For a complete tasting, organise an excursion to the slopes of Etna, where dozens of wineries open their doors to visitors amid heroic vineyards and breathtaking views.

Markets and local products

Taormina's market is small but well-curated, with stalls of fruit and vegetables, fresh fish, and typical products. For a larger and more authentic market, head down to Giardini Naxos on Tuesday morning.

Products to take home include: Bronte pistachio, Avola almonds, Pantelleria capers, orange blossom honey, and Etna extra virgin olive oil. Pastry shops sell cassata, cannoli, and frutta di Martorana (hand-painted marzipan fruit sweets).

Budget tips

Taormina is among the most expensive destinations in Sicily. To save money, avoid restaurants on Corso Umberto and seek out trattorias in the side streets and lower part of town. At lunch, many venues offer fixed menus between 15 and 20 euros.

For breakfast, granita with brioche costs 4-6 euros: it is a complete meal. Street food (arancino plus a drink) can be had for 4-5 euros. For dinner, consider heading down to Giardini Naxos, where prices are significantly lower for the same quality.

Avoid August if possible: prices double and service quality often suffers from overcrowding.