Voroneț, the open-air frescoes of Romanian Bukovina
At Voroneț, in Romanian Bukovina, the open-air frescoes of the painted monasteries have told sacred stories on their outer walls for five centuries.
Foto: Cezar Suceveanu (CC BY 3.0) — Wikimedia Commons
You arrive at Gura Humorului among gentle hills and forests, and at first you don't know where to look. Then you see Voroneț: a compact monastery whose outer walls are entirely covered in frescoes. In the background reigns a blue so distinctive and deep that it has become famous as "Voroneț blue", against which saints, prophets and scenes of the Last Judgement stand out. This is no museum behind glass: it is monumental art in the open air, exposed for centuries to the sun, the wind and the snows of the Carpathians.
The painted monasteries of Bukovina, recognised by UNESCO, are several: besides Voroneț there are Sucevița, Moldovița, Humor and others, scattered across valleys a short distance from one another. Each has its own dominant hue and its own painted tales, conceived five centuries ago to teach sacred stories to those who could not read. Visiting them in sequence, along quiet roads between rural villages, is a small journey within the journey: few cars, the odd cart, meadows and hills.
The wonderful thing is that overtourism simply has not arrived here. Even on the busiest days you rarely find crowds: you may find yourself almost alone before a frescoed wall, with time to look up and follow one scene after another. It is the exact opposite of the queues before Europe's great monuments.
To enjoy them without crowds, aim for late spring or autumn, avoiding the height of summer. Set out early in the morning, respect the silence of these still-active places of worship and stay the night in Gura Humorului or a country guesthouse: you will spend little and leave something behind for the local economy. Bring comfortable shoes and a jacket: the Carpathian weather changes quickly.
Getting there
The frescoed monastery lies in the village of Voroneț, now part of the town of Gura Humorului, in Bukovina. The main hub is Suceava, connected to Gura Humorului by regional trains and buses; from the town you reach the monastery by taxi or on foot within a few kilometres. By car you arrive along the DN17 national road and then the turn-off towards Voroneț. Suceava also has the area's nearest airport.
Practical guides for Como
Practical info
When is the best time to visit Voroneț?
The recommended time is May, June, September and October, when it is less crowded.
Is Voroneț crowded?
Voroneț is a very quiet destination compared with the more touristy ones.
Where is Voroneț?
Voroneț is located in Gura Humorului (Bukovina), Romania.
How to get there
- 🚆 Nearest station: Gura Humorului Oraș ~4 km as the crow flies
- ✈️ Nearest airport: Aeroportul Internațional „Ștefan cel Mare” Suceava SCV ~41 km as the crow flies
Nearest points as the crow flies (source OpenStreetMap): actual times depend on the roads, often mountain ones.
