Trakai: The Island Castle That Guards the Soul of Lithuania

A castle that floats between sky and water

There are castles on hills, castles on rivers, castles in the middle of forests. But few castles in the world can claim a setting like Trakai's: an island in the middle of Lake Galvė, connected to the mainland by a wooden bridge, with the water reflecting the red-brick towers like a mirror. Thirty kilometres from Vilnius, Trakai is the place where Lithuania celebrates its deepest identity — that of the Grand Duchy, one of the largest empires of medieval Europe.

What to see in Trakai

The Island Castle

Trakai Island Castle (Trakų salos pilis) was built in the fourteenth century by Grand Duke Kęstutis and expanded by his son Vytautas the Great, who made it the main residence of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Destroyed over the following centuries, it was faithfully reconstructed between 1951 and 1987 and is today Lithuania's national symbol. Inside, the museum houses collections of coins, weapons, ceramics and exhibits telling the story of the Grand Duchy. The inner courtyard, surrounded by wooden galleries on three levels, is atmospheric. But it is the exterior view — the red castle rising from the blue water, with forests in the background — that stays with you.

The Peninsula Castle

Less well known, the Peninsula Castle stands on the mainland, partially in ruins. It was Trakai's first fortress, predating the island one. The remains of the walls and tower are set within a park and offer a quiet walk away from the visitors at the main castle.

The Karaite community

Trakai is home to one of Europe's last Karaite communities — a Turkic people of Jewish faith brought here by Grand Duke Vytautas in the fourteenth century as castle bodyguards. The Karaite houses — recognisable by the three windows on the façade (one for God, one for the grand duke, one for the family) — line Karaimų Street. The kenesa (Karaite synagogue), small and discreet, is a one-of-a-kind place of worship.

Lakes and nature

Trakai lies at the heart of the National Historic Park, a landscape of 200 lakes, birch forests and morainic hills. In summer you can hire kayaks and rowing boats on Lake Galvė, cycle along forest trails and swim in the clear waters. In winter, the lake freezes and you can walk across the ice to the castle — a surreal experience.

What to eat

- Kibinai — Karaite pastries, puff-pastry parcels filled with mutton (or beef, or vegetables), baked in the oven. They are Trakai's signature dish and found in every restaurant

- Šaltibarščiai — Lithuania's cold beetroot soup, shocking pink, served with hard-boiled egg and potatoes: refreshing in summer

- Cepelinai — giant potato dumplings filled with meat, zeppelin-shaped, served with sour cream sauce and crispy bacon

- Lithuanian craft beer — Lithuania has an ancient brewing tradition; try the farmhouse ales (kaimiškas alus)

The Kybynlar restaurant, on the Karaite street, is the most authentic place for kibinai. The Bona Pizzeria & Restaurant on the waterfront has a terrace with a castle view.

How to get there

Trakai is 28 km from Vilnius, connected by frequent buses (30 minutes) and trains (35 minutes, station 2 km from the castle). By car, 30 minutes from Vilnius via national road 107. Vilnius Airport is served by Ryanair and Wizz Air flights from across Italy. Trakai can be visited as a day trip from Vilnius, but staying overnight allows you to enjoy the castle at sunset and sunrise, when the day-trippers have gone.

When to go

From May to September for the best weather and long days. June offers near-white nights, with light until 10:30 pm. Summer (July-August) is the busiest but most vibrant period, with festivals and water sports. Winter (January-February) is harsh but spectacular: the frozen lake and the snow-covered castle are a scene straight from a Nordic fairy tale.