The Sentiero della Bonifica by bike: through the Val di Chiana from Arezzo to Chiusi

There is a part of Tuscany that almost no one puts on their itinerary: the plain of the Val di Chiana, that low, orderly land reclaimed over the centuries and crossed by a long, straight canal. The tour buses race towards the art cities and leave behind an agricultural landscape of farms, poplars, ditches and historic locks. That is precisely why the Sentiero della Bonifica is one of the most relaxing cycle routes in the region: running along the Canale Maestro della Chiana, flat for almost its entire length, far from traffic and crowds.

The route

The route links the Arezzo area to Chiusi, following the banks of the canal. You ride on a track that is largely compacted gravel, built on the old service roads of the reclamation works. The gradient is almost dead flat: the water has to flow ever so slowly, and the cyclist moves along with it. Along the way you come across the locks and hydraulic structures that regulate the outflow, tangible evidence of how this unhealthy plain was transformed into fertile countryside.

Stages and detours

From the north the route sets off near Arezzo, in the Chiani-Pieve al Toppo area, and heads south, touching the territory of Foiano della Chiana, the countryside around Marciano and Cortona, the Bettolle and Sinalunga area, and finishing near Chiusi and its lake. Each of these stages allows a detour: the walled village of Lucignano a short distance away, the historic centres of Foiano and Cortona looking down over the valley from on high, the wetlands of Lake Chiusi with its birdwatching. The beauty of it is that the trail itself stays linear and easy to follow, while the villages remain like backdrops on the hills to either side.

How to get there

Getting there is easy precisely because the ends of the route are served by the railway. Arezzo and Chiusi-Chianciano Terme are stations on the main line between Florence and Rome, and several intermediate stops such as Sinalunga and Bettolle-Sinalunga let you break up the journey. This makes the itinerary perfect for those who don't want to do a there-and-back: you ride one way and return by train, checking in advance that your chosen service accepts bicycles. A gravel bike or a sturdy city bike is ideal for the gravel surface; e-bikes make the whole crossing accessible even to those who aren't fit, given its considerable length. Some of the valley's towns have rental shops and repair points, but it's best to check availability and opening hours before you set off, since out of season many services stay closed.

When to go

The best time is spring, in April and May, when the fields are green, the banks in bloom and the temperatures still mild, or September, with the golden light of late summer and the days still long. These are months when the better-known Tuscany is packed with tour groups, while here on the plain you mostly cross paths with the odd local cyclist and the farmer at work. High summer, on the other hand, is not recommended: the plain is exposed, shade is scarce and the humid heat is heavy. It is precisely this lack of postcard appeal that keeps the crowds away and gives you a ride in solitude.

A practical tip: bring plenty of water and something to eat, because long stretches of the canal run through open countryside with no cafés or fountains, and the villages often lie a little way off up on the higher ground. Plan your stops in the villages you pass through for lunch and to refill your bottles, check the timetable of trains that carry bikes for the return, and set off early in the morning, when the light is low and the air fresh. A cap, some sunscreen and a spare inner tube round off the essential kit for tackling the long, open straights in comfort. That way the Sentiero della Bonifica becomes what it is at heart: a slow journey into a Tuscany of labour and water, forgotten by passing tourism.

Practical guides for Arezzo

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• What to see in Arezzo in 2 days
• Where to eat in Arezzo
• How to get to Arezzo