The forty carved capitals of the cloister of Sant'Orso, in Aosta
In Aosta, the cloister of the Collegiate Church of Sant'Orso guards forty carved capitals and a rare silence, a stone's throw from the crowds heading to the Alps.
Foto: autore sconosciuto (Public domain) — Wikimedia Commons
Almost everyone arrives in Aosta just passing through. They come off the motorway, photograph the Roman ruins, and set off again towards Mont Blanc or the Matterhorn. And yet, set apart from the centre and its bustle, the complex of Sant'Orso remains one of those places most travellers walk past without noticing, leaving room for those with the patience to stop.
The Romanesque cloister
The heart of it all is the Romanesque cloister, built in the decades around 1132, when the canons were required to adopt the rule of Saint Augustine. An inscription on one capital recalls the very beginning of regular life in this place. The columns, in bardiglio marble, support a crown of storied capitals: scenes from the Old and New Testaments, episodes from the life of Sant'Orso, fantastical animals and even a few secular tales, such as the fable of the fox and the stork.
The Ottonian frescoes
It is worth looking up, because the Collegiate Church hides a second treasure that is hard to imagine. Between the ceiling and the roof of the nave survives a cycle of Ottonian frescoes from the 11th century, among the best preserved in Europe, commissioned in the days of Bishop Anselm. They are not always accessible: it is best to enquire in advance, because visiting the roof space depends on openings and on local guides.
Outside, the Romanesque bell tower, over forty metres tall, marks the square in an isolated position, with its 15th-century spire. Beside it, the priory built at the end of the 15th century by Prior Giorgio di Challant adds a late-Gothic touch to the story. It is a layered ensemble, one that lets itself be read slowly, with no timed tickets or queues to manage.
When to go
The right moment is the shoulder season: a late-spring morning or an autumn afternoon, when the light cuts low beneath the arcades and the capitals darken. You enter on tiptoe, sit on the edge of the cloister and listen. In Aosta, where everything seems to rush towards the mountains, here for once time slows down.
Related guides: The Immacolata long weekend: villages and Christmas markets away from the crowds.
Getting there
The Collegiate Church of Sant'Orso is in the heart of Aosta's old town, a few minutes' walk from the railway station and the main Roman monuments. By car you arrive via the A5 motorway as far as Aosta, with public car parks a short distance from the complex. The reference airport is Turin Caselle.
Practical guides
Practical info
When is the best time to visit The forty carved capitals of the cloister of Sant'Orso?
The recommended time is May, June, September and October, when it is less crowded.
Is The forty carved capitals of the cloister of Sant'Orso crowded?
The forty carved capitals of the cloister of Sant'Orso is a very quiet destination compared with the more touristy ones.
Where is The forty carved capitals of the cloister of Sant'Orso?
The forty carved capitals of the cloister of Sant'Orso is located in Aosta, Aosta Valley, Italy.
Inhabitants at each census (source ISTAT, historical series via Wikipedia).
How to get there
- 🚆 Nearest station: Aosta / Aoste ~1 km as the crow flies
- ✈️ Nearest airport: Aeroporto regionale della Valle d'Aosta / Aéroport régional de la Vallée d'Aoste AOT ~3 km as the crow flies
Nearest points as the crow flies (source OpenStreetMap): actual times depend on the roads, often mountain ones.
