Pécs: Where Rome Meets the Ottoman Empire in Southern Hungary

Two thousand years of history under a Mediterranean sky

Pécs is the southernmost of Hungary's great cities, and you can feel it. The climate is mild, almond trees blossom in February, and the atmosphere has something Mediterranean about it that sets it apart from the rest of the country. But it is not merely a matter of temperature: Pécs has two thousand years of layered history — Roman, early Christian, Ottoman, Habsburg — and each layer is still legible, like the pages of a book left open.

What to see in Pécs

The early Christian burial ground

Beneath the historic centre of Pécs lies one of the most important early Christian necropoles in Europe, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000. The catacombs, dating back to the fourth century AD (when the city was called Sopianae), contain mural paintings depicting biblical scenes — Adam and Eve, Daniel in the lions' den, the Good Shepherd — which are among the oldest examples of Christian art in Europe. The Peter-Paul Burial Chamber and the Cella Septichora are the most impressive sites.

The Mosque-Church of Gázi Kászim Pasha

On the main square (Széchenyi tér), the most iconic building in Pécs is the Mosque of Gázi Kászim, built between 1543 and 1546 during the Ottoman occupation using stones from a Christian church. After the Habsburg reconquest it was converted into a Catholic church, and today it is a singular hybrid: an Ottoman dome, a mihrab facing Mecca, a Christian altar and crucifix. Two faiths in a single space, without conflict.

The Zsolnay Cultural Quarter

The Zsolnay family founded a ceramics factory in Pécs in 1853 that became famous throughout Europe for its iridescent majolica, used to decorate buildings from Budapest to London. The former factory has been transformed into the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter, a complex of museums, galleries, workshops and exhibition spaces. The porcelain museum displays breathtaking pieces; the roofs and façades decorated with Zsolnay ceramics can be seen throughout the city, from the cathedral to the square's fountain.

The Cathedral and the Bishop's Palace

The Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, with its four towers, dominates the highest point of the city. Rebuilt in neo-Romanesque style in the nineteenth century, it houses frescoes and mosaics of great beauty. The bishop's palace and the surrounding medieval walls form a monumental complex that merits at least an hour's visit.

What to eat

- Gulyásleves — the real Hungarian goulash soup, with beef, paprika, potatoes and peppers

- Töltött káposzta — cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice in a paprika and sour cream sauce

- Lángos — deep-fried flatbread topped with sour cream and grated cheese, the Magyar street food

- Villányi bor — the red wines of Villány, 30 km from Pécs, are the finest in Hungary, comparable to Bordeaux

The Elefántos restaurant in the old town serves traditional Hungarian dishes with creativity. For wine, a trip to Villány is essential: the Gere and Bock wineries are excellent.

How to get there

Pécs is in southern Hungary, 200 km from Budapest. Direct trains run from Budapest Keleti in about 3 hours (InterCity line). Pécs-Pogány airport has limited flights; the most practical option is to fly to Budapest and continue by train. By car, about 2.5 hours from Budapest via the M6. From Italy, low-cost flights to Budapest (Wizz Air, Ryanair) and then train or car hire.

When to go

Pécs enjoys a mild microclimate: the useful season runs from March to November. Spring (April-May) is ideal, with almond trees in blossom and pleasant temperatures. Summer is warm but bearable. September and October offer the Villány harvest and spectacular autumn colours. The Pécs Festival in June is the main cultural event.