Paraty: The Colonial Town Where the Streets Flood with the Tide

Paraty is a Portuguese colonial town on the coast between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, at the foot of the Serra do Mar. It was the port from which gold from Minas Gerais was shipped to Portugal in the 18th century. When the gold ran out, the town was abandoned — and for this reason it survived intact: the irregular stone streets, the white churches, the houses with their vividly painted doors and windows.

The streets that flood

The streets of the historic centre were built without a drainage system — because the sea washes them clean. On the nights of the full moon and new moon, when the tide is high, ocean water enters the historic centre and floods the streets ankle-deep. Locals walk barefoot or in flip-flops, the bars stay open, and the town becomes an amphibious village. It is one of the most surreal urban experiences in South America.

The islands and the sea

The bay of Paraty is dotted with 65 islands and hundreds of beaches reachable only by boat. Schooner excursions (escuna) call at 4 or 5 islands in a day, with stops for swimming in turquoise waters. The most beautiful beaches — Praia do Sono, Praia de Trindade — can also be reached on foot along trails through the Mata Atlântica.

The cachaça and the cuisine

Paraty produces artisanal cachaça — distilled in copper stills and aged in barrels of tropical wood. The distilleries (alambiques) can be visited along the road to Cunha. The local cuisine features fish, prawns, banana and coconut milk — moqueca de camarão is the signature dish. The Paraty International Literary Festival (FLIP), held in July, transforms the town into a stage for authors from around the world.

Getting there

From Rio: 4 hours by car along the Costa Verde (one of Brazil's most scenic roads). From São Paulo: 4.5 hours. Direct buses from both cities. Best time: March–May and August–October (dry, less crowded). December–February is Brazilian high season — prices double and the beaches fill up.