The Alpujarras beneath the Sierra Nevada

The Andalusia that fills the postcards is that of Granada, Seville and Cordoba, splendid but often overcrowded cities. Yet you only need to turn your back on the plain and climb the southern slope of the Sierra Nevada to enter a different, silent world: the Alpujarras. They are a series of deep valleys descending from the highest peaks of peninsular Spain towards the Mediterranean, dotted with whitewashed villages clinging to the slopes. These villages preserve an urban layout of Moorish and Berber origin: cube-shaped houses with flat slate roofs, narrow alleys that slip beneath the dwellings, mushroom-shaped chimneys and water channels that flow everywhere. It was the last refuge of the Muslim population after the fall of Granada, and that legacy can still be read in the architecture and the terraced landscape.

The paths between the villages

The most authentic way to discover the Alpujarras is to walk along the ancient mule tracks that have linked one village to another for centuries. The most spectacular stretch is that of the upper Poqueira valley, where three villages are arranged in a row one above the other on the mountainside: Pampaneira at the bottom, then Bubión and finally Capileira, the highest, overlooking a gorge that climbs towards the peaks. A loop path links the three villages among terraced gardens, chestnut trees and fountains, and is one of the most beloved walks in the area. Further east, Trevélez is worth a stop, a village famous for curing hams thanks to its dry highland air, along with more secluded villages like Busquístar or Ferreirola, still off the beaten track.

How to get there

From Capileira, for those with the legs and experience, paths set off that climb to altitude towards the heart of the Sierra Nevada and, in the right months, up to the highest peaks; but the soul of the Alpujarras is the mid-slope walk between the villages, within reach of anyone who loves to walk. To get there it is best to start from Granada, from which you climb by car or scheduled bus up to Pampaneira and the other villages. Once there you move on foot from one village to another, and many choose to walk over several days the long-distance paths that cross the entire region, sleeping stage by stage.

Difficulty of the route

The difficulties vary greatly. The links between neighbouring villages are short, pleasant strolls, while the routes that descend and climb the valleys involve significant elevation changes, because here every movement means losing and regaining altitude along the steep flanks. Nothing technical, but the legs work, especially under the sun. The mule tracks are generally well marked and in good condition, paved with stone in the oldest stretches.

When to go

The beauty is that the best period is precisely the low season. In spring, in April and May, the slopes fill with flowers and the air is warm, while the peaks of the Sierra Nevada stay white, offering a magnificent contrast between mild villages and snow up high. Autumn, in October, brings back the same enchantment with golden chestnut groves and still-warm days. In these months the paths are almost empty and the villages return to their quiet, while summer brings intense heat at low altitudes and a few more visitors. Walking out of season means having the mule tracks almost to yourself.

A practical tip: despite the generally mild climate, in these valleys the temperature changes considerably with altitude and with the hour. An April morning can be cool in the shade of the alleys and warm in the sun on the terraces, so dress in layers and carry enough water, because between one village and another fountains exist but the open stretches under the sun can be long. And do not rush: stop for lunch in a village, taste the Trevélez ham and let yourself be guided by the slow rhythm that is the very essence of these mountains.