The grave of Charles XII's dog in Karlberg Park, Stockholm

On a branch of the Karlberg canal, on the border between the Vasastaden district and the municipality of Solna, stands Karlberg Palace: a building from 1630 that today houses the Militärhögskolan Karlberg, the Swedish military academy. It is considered the oldest military school in the world still operating in its original premises, with lessons uninterrupted since 1792. The palace cannot be visited, but the park that surrounds it is public and open every day, roughly from 6am to 10pm. And it is here, among lawns and centuries-old trees along the water, that three details hide which most tourists in Stockholm do not even suspect.

The grave of Pompe

The first is a small tombstone dedicated to Pompe, the favourite dog of King Charles XII (Karl XII), buried in 1699. Charles XII is one of the most debated sovereigns in Swedish history, the warrior-king who spent much of his reign on military campaign; the fact that his dog was given its own monumental burial, surviving for more than three centuries, says a great deal about the bond between the king and the animal. The stone is modest, easy to miss if you don't know to look for it: it is worth asking or following the paths toward the back of the palace.

Temple and runestone

Not far away stands the Temple of Diana, a neoclassical pavilion erected around 1790 for Gustav III. A curious detail: the structure was originally dedicated to Neptune, and only later became associated with Diana, goddess of the hunt. It is the kind of decorative building that eighteenth-century rulers loved to scatter through royal parks, meant to be admired during walks. Completing the picture is a runestone, with an inscription that reads, in translation: "Anund and Torgils had the stone raised in memory of Åsgöt". Having an authentic rune beside an eighteenth-century temple and the grave of a royal dog makes this corner of the park a little collage of different eras.

Why it is quiet

Karlberg Park is prized by Stockholmers as one of the finest in the city, yet it remains surprisingly quiet compared to the Royal Palace in Gamla Stan, where almost all the flow of visitors concentrates. The explanation is simple: the palace, closed to the public, does not feature on the tourist circuits, and the park is frequented above all by those who live nearby, by people running along the canal or spreading a blanket on the grass in summer. There is no café inside, so it is worth bringing something along: the banks and lawns lend themselves well to a picnic in fine weather.

How to get there

Getting there is quick and easy from the centre. The most convenient metro stops are Stadshagen and S:t Eriksplan, from which the park entrance is reached with a short walk. The coordinates to orient yourself toward the area of the grave and the temple are 59.3376, 17.9986. The best period runs from late spring to early autumn, when the park is in full green and the banks invite you to linger; in winter the atmosphere is barer but the loop remains short and pleasant. Allow about an hour to cross the park at a leisurely pace, locate the three points of interest and enjoy the view over the canal: a simple, free outing just minutes from the heart of Stockholm.

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