La Cavallerizza Reale: the Baroque Stables a Step from Piazza Castello
Just steps from Piazza Castello, Turin's Cavallerizza Reale preserves the Baroque eighteenth-century stables in the silence of its courtyard.
Foto: Blaeu, Joan (Public domain) — Wikimedia Commons
A few metres from the Teatro Regio and Piazza Castello, where crowds throng for the Egyptian Museum and the Mole, there is a world that tourist flows almost always skip over. La Cavallerizza Reale is a complex of courtyards, stables and riding grounds that once belonged to the House of Savoy court. Passing through the entrance hall, you find yourself in a space that is suddenly quiet, with decaying façades and long porticoes, where the noise of the city fades as if behind a curtain.
The charm of this place lies precisely in its suspended state. For years the Cavallerizza has been at the centre of complex events, between abandonment, occupations and restoration projects. The result is an ambivalent atmosphere: the Baroque elegance of the buildings mingles with peeling plaster, grass between the cobblestones, graffiti and traces of recent life. It's a fragile heritage awaiting its fate, and for this reason it should be crossed with respect, without forcing gates or closed spaces.
What can be freely enjoyed is the courtyard and the perspective of the buildings towards the Royal Gardens and the River Po, not far off. It's best to arrive on foot from the centre, perhaps pairing the visit with a stroll along the Murazze or through the green of the gardens. No tickets, no queues: just the chance to observe a piece of regal Turin waiting to come back to life.
For those seeking the other face of the city, away from the most trodden attractions, the Cavallerizza is a reminder of how much history hides behind a doorway. Always check for any events or temporary openings run by cultural associations, which sometimes bring the spaces to life with exhibitions and initiatives. Go at a calm pace, early in the morning or in the late afternoon, and let the silence of the courtyard do the rest.
Related guides: The Langhe and Monferrato by train: a slow weekend between Alba, Barolo and Canelli.
How to get there
La Cavallerizza Reale is located in the heart of Turin, between Via Verdi and the gardens behind Piazza Castello, a step from the Royal Palace. From the Porta Nuova station it can be reached on foot in a quarter of an hour along Via Roma, or by the M1 metro and the surface lines serving the centre. The reference airport is Turin-Caselle.
Practical guides for Torino
Practical info
When is the best time to visit La Cavallerizza Reale?
The recommended time is March, April, October and November, when it is less crowded.
Is La Cavallerizza Reale crowded?
La Cavallerizza Reale is a very quiet destination compared with the more touristy ones.
Where is La Cavallerizza Reale?
La Cavallerizza Reale is located in Turin, Piedmont, Italy.
Inhabitants at each census (source ISTAT, historical series via Wikipedia).
How to get there
- 🚆 Nearest station: Porta Nuova ~1 km as the crow flies
- ✈️ Nearest airport: Aeroporto di Torino TRN ~15 km as the crow flies
Nearest points as the crow flies (source OpenStreetMap): actual times depend on the roads, often mountain ones.
