Spring on the Minor Islands — April and May, Away from Everything

Italy's minor islands: a world apart in spring

Between April and May Italy's minor islands live their most magical moment: the Mediterranean scrub is in bloom, the sea begins to warm, ferry services resume their summer schedules but the tourists have not yet arrived. It is the perfect window for experiencing these small lands suspended between sky and water, at an unhurried pace and at accessible prices.

Ventotene (Lazio)

An hour and a half by hydrofoil from Formia, Ventotene is a jewel of barely 1.5 square kilometres. In spring the island is inhabited almost exclusively by its 700 residents. The Roman harbour carved from tufa, the Cisterna dei Carcerati and the remains of the Villa of Giulia (daughter of Augustus, exiled here) tell a millennia-long story. B&Bs in the borgo open from Easter and cost from 50 euros a night. Not to be missed: a seafood lunch at La Terrazza on the harbour (25–30 euros for a full meal).

Santo Stefano

Opposite Ventotene, the islet of Santo Stefano with its abandoned Bourbon prison is visitable on organised boat excursions (15–20 euros). A powerful and desolate place, currently undergoing restoration.

Marettimo (Sicily)

The wildest and most remote of the Egadi Islands, Marettimo is reached by hydrofoil from Trapani (one hour, around 20 euros). In spring the hiking trails are walkable without the summer heat: Pizzo Falcone (686 m) offers a view that sweeps across all of western Sicily. The borgo is a handful of white and blue houses with three restaurants where the fish is caught the same day. Accommodation from 40 euros a night.

Procida (Campania)

Capital of Culture 2022, Procida saw a peak in tourism but in spring it regains its quiet. Marina Corricella, the pastel-coloured fishing village, is the most iconic image. April brings the Good Friday Procession of the Mysteries, one of the most evocative in the South. From Naples Beverello: 40 minutes by hydrofoil (15 euros). Accommodation from 55 euros a night.

Capraia Island (Tuscany)

In the Tuscan Archipelago, Capraia is volcanic and nearly uninhabited: 400 residents, no cars, trails that cross the entire island. In spring wild orchids bloom on the cliffs and the Stagnone lake (the only natural island lake in the Tyrrhenian) is surrounded by green. From Livorno: 2.5 hours by Toremar ferry (around 20 euros). Bring hiking boots.

San Pietro (Sardinia)

Carloforte, the only inhabited centre on the island of San Pietro, is a little piece of Liguria transplanted to Sardinia: founded by Genovese colonists from Tabarka, it retains the Tabarchino dialect and a unique cuisine (red tuna, cascà — Ligurian couscous). In spring the tuna fisheries prepare for the traditional mattanza, and the cliffs to the south of the island are spectacular. Ferry from Portovesme: 30 minutes, 12 euros.

The Tremiti Islands (Puglia)

San Domino, San Nicola and Capraia form the Apulian archipelago in the heart of the Adriatic. In April and May the sea is already crystal-clear and the Aleppo pines of San Domino scent the air. The Abbey of Santa Maria a Mare on San Nicola is a Romanesque gem. Ferry from Termoli: one hour (around 20 euros), or helicopter from Foggia (seasonal). Limited accommodation: book ahead.

Linosa (Sicily)

The smaller sister of Lampedusa is a volcanic crater in the middle of the Mediterranean. In spring Linosa is the realm of Caretta caretta sea turtles that come to nest. The cubic houses painted in vivid colours, the coves reachable only on foot and the total absence of traffic make it a place outside of time. From Lampedusa: one hour by hydrofoil. Note: connections are subject to weather conditions.

Practical tips for the minor islands in spring

• Book ferry tickets at least a week ahead: spring sailings are less frequent
• Bring cash: not all islands have ATMs and many businesses do not accept cards
• Temperatures range between 15 and 22°C: bring a windproof jacket and a swimsuit
• In April the sea is still cool (16–18°C), but from mid-May swimming is pleasant
• Check the times of return ferries: in low season the last one departs early
• Many accommodation options open only from Easter: contact the owners directly

The minor islands in spring are the Italy that no travel guide ever writes about: silent, luminous and genuine. Go before summer transforms them.