Santuario della Guardia: walking the ridges of Monte Figogna

Above Ceranesi, in the hills behind Genoa, Monte Figogna rises 804 metres along a wind-battered ridge. On its summit stands the Santuario di Nostra Signora della Guardia, a basilica whose octagonal dome is visible from much of the Valpolcevera. Many pilgrims drive right up to the forecourt, but those who climb on foot discover a different mountain: silent, sweeping, surprisingly close to the city and yet forgotten by everyone rushing towards the sea.

The tradition

Local tradition holds that here, according to a notarial deed preserved in the Genoese diocesan archives, the Madonna appeared to the shepherd Benedetto Pareto, asking him to build a chapel. From that first shrine, larger and larger buildings grew over the centuries, culminating in the great nineteenth-century basilica that now crowns the peak. Without wading into disputed dates, it is enough to say that the site has drawn devotion for more than five centuries, and that its stones speak of the toil of those who carried materials all the way up.

The trails

The real beauty of Figogna, though, lies in its trails. From the hamlet of San Biagio and its surroundings, mule tracks and waymarked paths climb through chestnut trees, broom and outcrops of green rock, typical of these Apennine slopes. As you walk, views open out over the Gulf of Genoa, the Apennines and, on clear days, all the way to the Alps. The mountain's very name recalls that people once "stood guard" here, scanning the sea for ships and armies.

When to go

Go in spring or autumn: summer can be sultry on the climb and crowded on pilgrimage weekends, while winter brings crystalline air but a biting wind. Bring water, hiking boots and respect: this is a living place of worship, not just another viewpoint.

Leave the car in the valley, choose a trail and earn the summit step by step. You will arrive sweating and in silence, and you will understand why for centuries this climb was considered an act, not merely a route.

Related guides: Instead of the Cinque Terre: colourful Ligurian villages without the crowds.

Getting there

The sanctuary sits on the summit of Monte Figogna, in the municipality of Ceranesi, in the hinterland of Genoa. By car, leave the A7 motorway at the Genova Bolzaneto exit and follow the provincial road that climbs towards the mountain, with ample parking just below the forecourt. It can also be reached by scheduled buses from Genoa and, for those who love to walk, by several hiking trails that climb towards the peak. The nearest airport is Genoa Cristoforo Colombo.

Practical guides for Asti

• Where to stay in Asti
• What to see in Asti in 2 days
• Where to eat in Asti
• How to get to Asti