Bagan — A Thousand Pagodas in Myanmar's Golden Dust

Bagan: a horizon of pagodas

Imagine an arid plain the size of Manhattan, dotted with over two thousand temples and pagodas rising from red dust like a materialised dream. Bagan, in the heart of Myanmar, is one of the world's most extraordinary archaeological sites — yet it receives a fraction of the visitors who come to Angkor Wat or Machu Picchu. Here silence is still possible, and an entire temple can be yours alone for a full hour at sunset.

The Bagan plain was the centre of the Pagan Empire between the ninth and thirteenth centuries. At its height it counted over 10,000 religious structures; today around 2,200 survive, carefully restored after the 2016 earthquake. In 2019 UNESCO finally recognised Bagan as a World Heritage Site.

What to see in Bagan

The Ananda Temple

Considered Bagan's architectural jewel, the Ananda Temple is a twelfth-century masterpiece. The cruciform structure houses four imposing gilded Buddha statues nearly ten metres tall, each facing one of the cardinal points. The optical effect is remarkable: as you approach, the Buddha's face seems to shift from a stern expression to a serene smile.

Shwesandaw and the sunsets

After many temples were closed to climbing in order to preserve them, the Shwesandaw terrace remains one of the accessible vantage points. At sunset, the golden light transforms the plain into an Impressionist painting: the silhouettes of pagodas stand out against a blazing sky while the dust stirred by ox carts creates an otherworldly atmosphere.

Hot-air balloon flights

The most iconic experience in Bagan is the hot-air balloon flight at dawn. From October to March, Balloons over Bagan rise into the rosy sky and drift above the sea of temples for around 45 minutes. The cost is significant (around 300–350 USD per person), but those who have tried it describe it as one of the most beautiful moments of their lives. Book well in advance.

Exploring by e-bike

The best way to experience Bagan is to rent an e-bike (electric bicycle) for 5–8 dollars a day and get lost among the dirt tracks of the plain. Far from the main temples, you will find deserted pagodas where you can sit in solitude, frescoes faded by time and monks who will invite you to share a pot of tea. This is undertourism in its purest form.

Lacquerware workshops

Bagan is famous for its lacquerware craft, a tradition stretching back over a thousand years. In the workshops of the village of Myinkaba you can watch the entire process: from building the woven-bamboo frame to applying and hand-burnishing dozens of layers of lacquer. A finished piece requires months of work. Buying here means supporting the artisans and their families directly.

Sunset on the Irrawaddy

Every evening, the banks of the Irrawaddy become a natural stage. Locals recommend heading to the Bupaya pier, a small gilded stupa overlooking the water, to watch the sun sink behind the mountains on the far bank. The alternative is a sunset cruise on a traditional boat: around an hour of gentle river travel as the silhouettes of pagodas are etched against an orange sky. A simple but unforgettable experience, costing less than 10 dollars per person.

Burmese cuisine

Bagan's gastronomy deserves attention. Mohinga — fish soup with rice noodles, considered Myanmar's national dish — is found everywhere in the morning for just a few cents. Burmese curries, served with a vast array of side dishes and condiments, are less spicy than Thai curries but rich in flavour. Do not miss the tea leaf salad (lahpet thohk), a salad of fermented tea leaves with peanuts, sesame and crispy garlic that is a festival of textures and aromas.

A note on the current situation

Myanmar is going through a complex political period. Before planning your trip, always consult the travel advisories of the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs and up-to-date security sources. Bagan and the main tourist areas are generally considered safe, but the situation can change rapidly. Travelling ethically in Myanmar also means finding out how your money is spent and prioritising accommodation run by independent locals.

Getting there from Italy

- Via Bangkok or Singapore: flight from Italy (10–12 hours with a stopover), then flight to Mandalay or Yangon, and finally a domestic flight to Nyaung-U, Bagan's airport.

- From Mandalay: the river boat along the Irrawaddy (10–12 hours) is a magnificent experience passing through the Burmese countryside.

- From Yangon: domestic flight (1h20) or overnight bus (9 hours).

Practical information

Visa

A visa for Myanmar is mandatory. The e-visa (50 USD, 28 days) must be applied for online at least one week in advance. Always verify that the e-visa service is active at the time of booking.

When to go

The ideal season is from November to February: dry climate, temperatures between 20 and 32 degrees, clear skies for the balloons. March to May sees extreme heat (above 40°C). June to October monsoon rains make many tracks impassable.

Budget

Myanmar is still affordable by European standards:

- Accommodation: guesthouse from €15–25/night, hotel with temple views from €40–70.

- Meals: €2–5 in local restaurants.

- Archaeological area entrance: 25 USD (valid 5 days).

- E-bike: €4–7/day.

- Average daily budget: around €30–35.

Why Bagan is authentic undertourism

In a world where the great archaeological sites have become theme parks, Bagan holds out. Here you can still sit alone before an eleventh-century fresco, listen to the wind among the spires and feel the weight of history without the mediation of a selfie stick. It is a privilege that may not last: visit it with respect, and you will carry home something rare.