Hsipaw: the Burmese trek that travellers speak of in hushed tones

Hsipaw (pronounced «si-paw») is a small town in Shan State, northeastern Myanmar, reachable from Mandalay on one of the world's most spectacular trains — the one that crosses the Gokteik Viaduct, a steel bridge built in 1901 standing 250 metres above a gorge. Hsipaw is the starting point for one- or two-day treks into the Shan villages of the surrounding hills.

Trekking in the Shan villages

Local guides lead walkers through terraced rice paddies, bamboo forests and villages where life is measured by the rice and tea harvest. You sleep in monasteries or farmers' houses — on mats, with dinner cooked by the family. Conversations flow through the guide, who translates from Shan, and through smiles, which need no translation.

The waterfalls and the palace

Baw Baw Gyi waterfall, an hour's walk from the centre, tumbles into a natural pool surrounded by forest. The old Shan Palace, residence of the last Saopha (prince) of Hsipaw — abducted by the military in 1962 and never seen again — is a teak-wood building that can be visited. The story is told in the book «Twilight Over Burma» by Inge Sargent, the prince's Austrian wife.

Practical information

From Mandalay: train (10 hours, scenic but slow) or bus (6 hours). The two-day, one-night trek costs around 25–30 dollars per person, guide and meals included. The best period is November–February (dry and cool). Myanmar's political situation requires up-to-date information before travelling — check security conditions.