Arquà Petrarca, the Euganean Hills borgo where time stopped in the fourteenth century

A borgo that carries a poet's name

There are places that owe their fame to an illustrious name, yet remain miraculously sheltered from mass tourism. Arquà Petrarca is one of them: a handful of stone houses nestled on two hills in the heart of the Euganean Hills, where Francesco Petrarca chose to spend the final years of his life. The poet died here in 1374, and since then the borgo seems to have decided to stay true to that era, changing as little as possible.

Arriving from Padua — a mere thirty minutes by car along roads that wind between vineyards and olive groves — you have the feeling of stepping into a painting. The pink stone houses of the Euganean Hills overlook silent lanes, the gardens overflow with roses and wisteria in spring, and the only constant sound is that of the fountains dotting the path between the lower and upper borgo.

Petrarca's house and the tomb in the square

The heart of the visit is naturally the Casa del Petrarca, a fourteenth-century dwelling that the poet bought in 1369 and where he lived surrounded by his books and his celebrated cat. The building preserves frescoes inspired by his works, period furnishings and a hushed atmosphere that invites contemplation. You wander through the rooms imagining the poet at work on the Triumphs, his gaze ranging over the hills from the study window.

Descending toward the main little square you encounter the red Verona marble sarcophagus containing Petrarca's remains, placed in front of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta. The church itself merits a pause for its unadorned interior and its fifteenth-century altarpiece. The ensemble — the tomb, the church, the surrounding houses — composes a stage set that seems to have stepped out of an illuminated manuscript.

Walking among the hills: olives, jujubes and trails

But Arquà Petrarca is not only its poet. The borgo is immersed in the Parco Regionale dei Colli Euganei, a volcanic landscape that alternates chestnut woods with expanses of olive trees and vineyards. Easy and panoramic trails set out from here, allowing you to explore the hills without excessive effort: the Sentiero del Monte Ventolone offers broad views across the Po Plain, while the circular route toward the Laghetto della Costa is ideal for a morning walk.

The true botanical surprise of the borgo is the jujube. Arquà Petrarca is one of the few places in Italy where the jujube tree grows vigorously, and in autumn — between September and October — the village celebrates the Festa delle Giuggiole, devoted to this forgotten fruit. You taste jams, liqueurs and the celebrated brodo di giuggiole, a sweet spiced drink that gave rise to the Italian expression. It is not contrived folklore: it is a living tradition, made of handed-down recipes and patiently tended orchards.

At the table on the Euganean Hills

The cuisine of Arquà Petrarca reflects the generosity of the Euganean Hills. The extra-virgin olive oil produced on the surrounding hills is delicate and fruity, perfect on bigoli in salsa — the thick pasta dressed with onions and anchovies that is a classic of the Venetian table. In the restaurants of the borgo and nearby hamlets you find dishes tied to the season: mushrooms and chestnuts in autumn, wild asparagus in spring, always accompanied by the wines of the Euganean Hills, from Moscato Fior d'Arancio to the red Colli.

For an authentic lunch, seek out the trattorias outside the historic centre, those frequented by locals: generous portions, a modest bill and the pleasure of eating in the shade of a pergola overlooking the hills.

Do not miss a stop at the cellars of the Euganean Hills, where wines are produced that are earning well-deserved recognition. The Moscato Fior d'Arancio, sweet and fragrant, is perfect with jujube-based desserts; the Colli Merlot, full-bodied and velvety, accompanies meat dishes. Many farms offer tastings by appointment, and the September harvest transforms the hills into a theatre of activity and fragrance.

How to get there and when to visit

Arquà Petrarca is easily reached from Padua (30 km) and Venice (70 km). By car, take the A13 to the Terme Euganee exit, then drive for about ten minutes along a panoramic road. There is no direct rail link, but from Monselice station local buses cover the route.

The borgo can be visited year-round, but the best months are spring — when the hills burst into green and blossom — and autumn, with the warm colours of the vineyards and the jujube festival. Summer can be hot, but evenings on the hills offer pleasant breezes. In winter the borgo empties almost entirely: perfect for those seeking absolute silence.

Practical information

- The Casa del Petrarca is open Tuesday to Sunday; modest entry fee.

- Free parking at the entrance to the borgo; the centre is pedestrian.

- Wear comfortable shoes: the lanes are uphill and paved in stone.

- Combine the visit with the Terme Euganee at Abano or Montegrotto, a few kilometres away.