The Monti della Laga loop, among waterfalls and forests

When people look at the central Apennines they usually see the Gran Sasso cutting across the sky, or they think of the Sibillini crowded with hikers. The Monti della Laga, right beside them, remain an anonymous green smudge on the map. And yet they are unique: while almost all of the Apennines are limestone and arid at the surface, here the ground is made of sandstone and marl, rocks that don't let water filter through. The result is a slope covered in dense forests and crossed by dozens of streams that plunge into waterfalls, something extremely rare in these parts. The crowds simply aren't there because the area has no postcard-icon peak and because it lies off to the side compared with the park's better-known destinations.

The waterfalls

The handiest starting point is the Teramo side, around the villages of Cortino, Crognaleto and Pietracamela, or the Lazio-Rieti side towards Amatrice. A classic way into the spirit of the place are the waterfalls. The most famous and accessible is the Cascata della Volpara, reachable with a short walk through the woods; more demanding and spectacular is the Cascata delle Barche, hidden in a wild ravine. On the Ceppo side, a wooded hamlet of Rocca Santa Maria, a network of well-marked park trails sets off into the beech forests and climbs towards the ridges.

For those who want to climb higher, the range's major peaks are Monte Gorzano, which is also the highest mountain in Lazio, Pizzo di Sevo and Pizzo di Moscio. The climb to Gorzano from the Lazio side is long and should be tackled with training, water and a good map, because up there the terrain is open and windy and there are few landmarks. Those who prefer a gentler loop can stay in the forest belt, where the trails cross clearings, brooks and old beech woods that in autumn turn red and gold. The village of Ceppo, with its equipped area and small forest museum, makes a good base.

How to get there

Getting there takes a little patience, and that is part of why these mountains stay empty. By car you reach the Teramo side from the A24 motorway, exiting towards Teramo and then climbing the mountain roads to Ceppo, Cortino or Pietracamela; from the Rieti side you come via Amatrice, along the main road connecting Rieti to Ascoli Piceno. Public transport is scarce and infrequent, so it's best to travel with your own vehicle. The inner roads are narrow and winding: plan for long travel times and drive calmly. Once up, you move only on foot along the trails.

When to go

The best period runs from June to September. In June and July the streams still carry a good flow and the waterfalls are at their best, while the ridge meadows fill with blooms; September brings clear air, woods beginning to change colour and pleasant temperatures. These months avoid both the snow, which lingers here for a long time and makes the high trails dangerous, and the summer crowds: even in peak season the Laga stays far quieter than the Gran Sasso, and on weekdays it's easy to walk for hours without meeting a soul.

Practical tips

A practical tip: bring shoes that aren't afraid of water and expect to ford streams. Precisely because so many torrents run here, several trails cross watercourses with no bridge, and after rain the level rises quickly. Check the weather before setting out, avoid venturing into the waterfall ravines after storms, and bear in mind that phone signal is absent across most of the area. This part of the Apennines was also marked by the 2016 earthquake around Amatrice: moving with respect and leaving something with the small village businesses is the best way to travel through it.

Practical guides for Como

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• What to see in Como in 2 days
• Where to eat in Como
• How to get to Como