Alta Via dei Parchi: the Pietra di Bismantova
On the Reggio Apennines, the Pietra di Bismantova is an isolated monolith surrounded by woods and badlands. Though cited by Dante, it remains an off-the-beaten-track destination: reached from the villages of the Emilian hinterland, far from the tourist flows of the coast and the art cities.
Foto: Paolo Picciati (CC BY-SA 3.0) — Wikimedia Commons
The Pietra di Bismantova is one of those mountains that seem out of place: a block of rock with vertical flanks that rises suddenly from the woods of the Reggio Apennines, with a grassy plateau on top. Dante named it in the Purgatorio as an image of a steep climb, and yet even today it remains off to the side. We are in the Emilian hinterland, far from the crowded destinations of the Via Emilia and the Adriatic coast, in a corner that many travellers pass through without stopping.
The climb
The natural starting point is the square at the foot of the Pietra, above the village of Castelnovo ne' Monti, where a small hermitage and a sanctuary stand. From here starts the trail that circles the massif and the one that, through a passage in the rock, leads to the summit plateau. The real climb is short but decisive, and once at the top you find yourself on a large hanging meadow from which the gaze runs over the Apennines and, on clear days, all the way to the plain. The full loop around the base, on the other hand, lets you observe the walls from every side, very popular with climbers too.
The Pietra is also a stage of the Alta Via dei Parchi, the long ridge path that connects the parks of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines and the Romagna Apennines. Those who want to go beyond the simple climb can fit it into a broader itinerary crossing beech woods, pastures and the characteristic badlands, the grey clays sculpted by erosion that shape the surrounding landscape. To walk along these stretches is to cross stone villages, old mule tracks and very few other hikers.
How to get there
To get there it is best to aim for Castelnovo ne' Monti, well connected to Reggio Emilia by mountain roads and local transport services. The car remains the most convenient means to reach the starting square, but the village offers a base with services for those who prefer to move on foot over several days. The climb to the summit is within the reach of anyone used to walking, with a modest elevation gain and short times; the loop around the base is even quieter. Different is the matter of the Alta Via stages, which require fitness, good shoes and the ability to read the trail markers, because these are long ridge walks with continuous ups and downs.
When to go
The best time runs from late spring to autumn. In May and June the woods are lush and the meadows in bloom, while October offers the foliage of the beech woods and clear air ideal for the views. It is no coincidence that these are the months when the light and colours are at their best. High summer can be hot and, on weekends, the Pietra attracts families and local groups: by choosing the mid-season and weekdays you easily find solitude. This corner of the Apennines escapes the crowd mainly because it is far from the most beaten tourist routes and because its fame remains tied more to culture and climbing than to mass tourism.
A practical tip: combine the climb with a tour among the villages and badlands of the area, and carry enough water with you, because along the ridge trails the springs are not guaranteed. Set off early in the morning, especially if you want to enjoy the summit plateau in peace, and keep an eye on the weather: the rock and the exposed sections become slippery in the rain. Once at the top, allow yourself the time to sit on the meadow and let your gaze wander over the Apennines, far from the noise.
It is also worth paying attention to the surroundings of the Pietra, not just the climb. The villages of the Reggio Apennines guard a heritage of mule tracks, old parish churches and culinary traditions tied to the chestnut and the ridge pastures, and walking among them helps you understand why this territory has stayed authentic. By extending the route by a few hours you can reach viewpoints over the badlands, where the grey clays sculpted by water create an almost lunar landscape a few steps from the green woods. It is this interweaving of different environments, in a small space, that makes the area so surprising for those who discover it. Take the time to explore it calmly, because here it is slowness that gives you the most beautiful images.
Practical guides
Practical info
When is the best time to visit Alta Via dei Parchi?
The recommended time is May, June and October, when it is less crowded.
Where is Alta Via dei Parchi?
Alta Via dei Parchi is located in Reggio Apennines, Reggio Emilia.
