Where to eat in Portovenere: Ligurian flavours between the gulf and Palmaria island
Guide on where to eat in Portovenere: stuffed mussels, Ligurian focaccia, anchovies, Gulf of Poets wines and harbour-side trattorias. Tips for saving money.
Portovenere: the taste of the Gulf of Poets
Portovenere is one of Italy's most beautiful villages, set at the tip of the promontory that closes the Gulf of Poets. Its cooking belongs to the eastern Ligurian coast, with fish just caught in the gulf, aromatic herbs from the hills and extra-virgin olive oil that perfumes every dish. Less hectic than the Cinque Terre, Portovenere offers an equally authentic gastronomic experience with an extra touch of elegance.
Local specialities you must try
Muscoli ripieni (mussels stuffed with breadcrumbs, parsley, garlic and Parmigiano) are the signature dish of Portovenere and the entire Gulf of La Spezia. You will find them in every restaurant and trattoria, and each cook has a secret recipe.
Trofie al pesto genovese, made with the intensely fragrant basil of the Riviera, are the compulsory first course. Focaccia di Recco with stracchino, thin and oozing, is another Ligurian icon. Marinated anchovies, fresh and delicate, open the meal with elegance.
Seafood dishes
Date-mussel soup was once the local glory before harvesting was banned; today restaurants offer clam and arselle soups that are equally flavourful. The mixed fried fish of the gulf, light and crisp, and spaghetti alle arselle are unmissable classics. Polpo alla spezzina, with potatoes and olives, is marine comfort food.
Where to eat: best restaurants and trattorias
Trattoria La Marina
On the little harbour, overlooking the colourful boats. Perfect stuffed mussels, trofie al pesto and impeccable fried fish. Simple, maritime atmosphere and average prices for the area.
Ristorante Calata Doria
Facing the quay, it serves the day's fresh fish with careful preparations. The crudi are excellent and the wine list spans Ligurian DOCs. An evocative terrace on summer evenings.
Locanda Lorena
On Palmaria island, reached by boat. Impeccably fresh fish in an idyllic setting, with tables just metres from the water. The experience is worth the crossing: book ahead.
Antica Osteria del Carugio
In the main alley of the village, unpretentious but tasty Ligurian cooking. Crispy farinata, hot focaccia and daily specials at reasonable prices. Ideal for a quick lunch.
Da Iseo
In the upper part of the village, less touristy and more popular with locals. Grilled fish, mussels marinara and homemade fresh pasta. Good value for money.
Street food and quick bites
Along the main caruggio you will find shops selling hot focaccia, farinata and salt-cod fritters. Fried-fish cones for walking are available from several stalls by the harbour. For a cheap aperitivo, sit on the pier with a glass of Vermentino and some olives.
Wines
Colli di Luni DOC produces an excellent Vermentino, mineral and saline, the ideal partner for gulf fish. Cinque Terre DOC wine comes from vineyards just a few kilometres away. Sciacchetrà, a rare and precious passito, is worth trying at least once. For reds, Rossese della Riviera is light and fragrant.
Budget tips
- Eat lunch in the inner alleys rather than on the waterfront: prices drop 20-30 per cent.
- Takeaway focaccia and farinata cost 3-5 euros and make a perfect light meal.
- Visit off-season (May or September-October): same flavours, fewer crowds and lower prices.
- Buy fresh mussels at La Spezia market and have them cooked at a trattoria.
- The boat to Palmaria is inexpensive: lunching on the island is a unique experience without necessarily costing more.
