What to see in Todi in 2 days: the perfect hilltop town of green Umbria

Todi in 2 days: harmony and silence over green Umbria

Todi was named in the 1990s by Professor Richard Levine of the University of Kentucky as "the world's most liveable city". Beyond the ranking, anyone visiting Todi immediately understands why: a medieval square of absolute perfection, a position commanding the Tiber valley, a rhythm of life that mass tourism has not yet altered.

Day 1: The hilltop historic centre

Morning

Begin at Piazza del Popolo, considered one of Italy's most beautiful and harmonious medieval squares. Three communal palaces — Palazzo dei Priori, Palazzo del Popolo and Palazzo del Capitano — face the Cathedral of the Annunciation, creating an ensemble of perfect balance. Climb the Palazzo dei Priori tower for the panorama.

The Cathedral, on its elevated staircase, has an austere Romanesque facade and a surprising interior with a Last Judgement by Ferraù da Faenza and a fine Renaissance wooden choir.

Afternoon

Visit the Museum and Picture Gallery in Palazzo del Popolo: the Todi Altarpiece by Giovanni di Pietro (Lo Spagna), pupil of Perugino, is the collection's masterpiece. Then descend to the Church of San Fortunato, the great Gothic-Franciscan temple with its unfinished sculpted portal and the crypt where Jacopone da Todi, the thirteenth-century poet, rests.

Hidden gem: from San Fortunato's bell tower (climbable) you enjoy one of Umbria's finest views: the city below, medieval rooftops, countryside descending to the Tiber and hills on the horizon.

Continue to the public gardens behind San Fortunato: the remains of the Rocca are set in a green park where locals bring their children. The valley view is serene and grand.

Evening

Todi's osterias serve authentic Umbrian cuisine: umbricelli with truffle, palomba alla ghiotta (pigeon), torta al testo with field herbs. Grechetto di Todi is the perfect accompanying wine.

Day 2: Temple of Consolation and countryside

Morning

Descend outside the walls to reach the Temple of Santa Maria della Consolazione, a Renaissance masterpiece with a central plan attributed to Bramante (or his circle). Isolated in the countryside below the city, with its dome and four apses, it is a building of perfect proportions that moves through geometric harmony. The bare interior amplifies the purity of forms.

Climb back via the Etruscan-Roman walls: Todi preserves three superimposed wall circuits (Etruscan, Roman, medieval). The Porta Marzia, with its megalithic Etruscan blocks, is impressive.

Afternoon

Reach the Convent of Montesanto (3 km, walkable or by car), a Franciscan hermitage immersed in the woods surrounding Todi. The silence, cloister and valley view are meditative.

Hidden gem: the Tiber River Park, below Todi's hill, offers trails through riparian woods and river bends. Lake Corbara, a little further south, is a wild corner for fishing or simply contemplating.

Alternatively, visit the Crypt of San Leucio beneath the Cathedral (when accessible): early Christian and early medieval remains under the flooring.

Evening

Close your stay with aperitivo in Piazza del Popolo, watching evening light caress the stones of medieval palaces. Todi is left like this: with the promise to return.

Recommended walking routes

• Complete historic centre: Piazza del Popolo → Cathedral → San Fortunato → Gardens → medieval walls → Porta Marzia (2 km, 2.5 hours with visits)
• Centre to Temple of Consolation: 1.5 km downhill, return via walls (30 minutes each way)
• Hill walk: from public gardens along walls towards Porta Perugina (1.5 km, panoramic)

Practical tips

• Parking is outside the walls (lift or escalators connect to the centre)
• The Todi Festival (August-September) brings high-level theatre, music and dance
• The surroundings are ideal for cycling among vineyards and olive groves

Further reading

For your stay, see where to stay in Todi, where to eat in Todi and how to get to Todi.