Cycling the Via Verde along the Costa dei Trabocchi

There is a stretch of the Adriatic that mass tourism has almost forgotten. The Costa dei Trabocchi, between Ortona and Vasto, is a succession of headlands, pebble beaches and small coves where the water stays clear and the crowded lidos feel light years away. What makes it special is the Via Verde: a cycle-and-pedestrian path built on the bed of the old Adriatic railway line, abandoned when the trains were moved inland. Where convoys once passed, today you pedal right at the water's edge.

The trabocchi

The name comes from the trabocchi, the ancient fishing machines built on wooden stilts that reach out over the water like patient spiders. Many have been restored and some have become restaurants where you eat fish just caught, suspended above the waves. Watching them file past one after another as you pedal is the heart of this experience.

The route

The route runs almost entirely flat, because it follows the railway alignment, and passes through tunnels carved into the rock that bring sudden coolness on hot days. From Ortona, with its harbour and the cathedral that guards the relics of Saint Thomas, you head south, touching San Vito Chietino and the marinas of Rocca San Giovanni and Fossacesia. At Fossacesia itself, above the coast, the Abbey of San Giovanni in Venere is worth a detour, Romanesque and looking out to sea from a terrace of olive trees. You continue toward Torino di Sangro and the Punta Aderci nature reserve, near Vasto, one of the wildest and most photographed corners of the whole shoreline, with a beach you can reach only on foot or by bike.

Along the way the coves alternate with the tunnels and the restored little stations. You climb off the saddle whenever you feel like it, for a swim in a sheltered inlet or a pause in the shade. This is not a route to rush: it is made to be savoured slowly, stopping at every trabocco that enchants you.

Getting there

To reach it, the reference is the Chieti coast. Pescara, with its airport and well-connected station, is the most convenient gateway from the north; from there you can reach Ortona or Fossacesia by train, both handy starting points. Bicycles can be rented at several points along the Via Verde, including e-bikes, a useful option if you want to cover the whole itinerary without tiring yourself. Those travelling with their own bike can load it onto the regional trains. Getting around is simple because the path is linear, well signposted and separated from car traffic.

When to go

The best time is late spring or early autumn: May and June offer long days, a sea already enjoyable and countryside in bloom, while September brings water still warm and golden light. These are precisely the months that avoid the crowds: July and August bring more people even here, and the heat makes cycling less pleasant, while in the shoulder seasons the Via Verde returns to its quiet self, used mostly by local cyclists and walkers. The tunnels and exposed stretches change character with the season, but it is outside the peak months that the coast shows its most authentic face.

A practical tip: set off early in the morning, when the raking light kindles the wood of the trabocchi and the air inside the tunnels is still cool. Carry enough water and keep a swimsuit always within reach, because the temptation of a dip in a cove will surely come. If you can, plan a lunch stop at one of the trabocco restaurants, booking in advance, especially on weekends: eating fish suspended over the water, with the sound of the waves beneath the planks, is the best way to understand why this corner of Abruzzo deserves to remain a little secret.

Practical guides for Como

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• How to get to Como