From Tsumago to Magome: Walking the Nakasendo Through Japan's Wooden Past

The Nakasendo was one of the five great roads linking Edo (Tokyo) to Kyoto during the Tokugawa period. It wound through the mountains of the Kiso region, in the valley that is now part of Nagano Prefecture. Of the 69 shukuba — the post stations where travellers stopped for the night — two have survived almost intact: Tsumago and Magome.

The trail between the two borghi

The Tsumago–Magome section is about 8 kilometres long and takes 2–3 hours, crossing the Magome-toge pass (801 m). The path climbs gently through forests of cedar and cypress, passing waterfalls, small Shinto shrines and farmhouses with thatched roofs. Signs along the route are bilingual. The baggage transport service between the two villages costs around 1,000 yen.

Tsumago: the borgo that refused progress

In the 1960s, while Japan raced towards modernisation, the residents of Tsumago voted to ban the demolition, sale and commercial letting of historic houses. The result is a village of dark wood where cars are banned, electricity cables are buried underground and lanterns are lit at dusk. The Waki-honjin Okuya, a restored historic inn, is now a museum showing how life was lived along the Nakasendo.

Magome: stone terraces and sweeping views

Magome is steeper — the village climbs along a cobbled street — and slightly more touristy, yet it remains authentic. It is the birthplace of the writer Toson Shimazaki, and his museum is a fine introduction to Meiji literature. The views of Mount Ena are particularly beautiful in late afternoon light.

How to plan your visit

From Nagoya: JR Chuo train to Nagiso (Tsumago) or Nakatsugawa (Magome), about 90 minutes. Staying overnight in a minshuku (family-run inn) in Tsumago is warmly recommended — in the evening, once the day-trippers have gone, the village is entirely yours. Best time: April–May and October–November. Autumn is spectacular for the foliage.