Triora, the Witches' Borgo in the Ligurian Alps

Where history entwines with legend

Perched at over 780 metres in the Argentina valley, Triora is a borgo that bears on its skin the scars of time and superstition. Here, between 1587 and 1589, one of the best-documented witch trials in Italy took place: dozens of women — the bàgiue, as they were called in the local dialect — were accused of causing famines and illnesses through demonic rites. The trial, conducted by the Inquisition's vicar, led to torture, forced confessions, and at least one death in prison. Today that tragic episode has become the key through which to discover an extraordinary borgo, where every lane conceals a story.

What to see in Triora

The Ethnographic Museum and Museum of Witchcraft

Housed in a palazzo in the historic centre, the museum is the ideal starting point for understanding Triora. The section on witchcraft reconstructs the stages of the trial using original documents, without resorting to cheap folklore. Alongside it, the ethnographic rooms recount the daily life of a Ligurian mountain borgo: farm tools, textiles, household objects that reveal the hardship and ingenuity of peasant culture. Admission is modest and the visit takes about an hour.

The Cabotina and the stone lanes

The Cabotina is the place more than any other associated with the legend of the witches: a ruin at the edge of the borgo where, according to tradition, the bàgiue gathered for their sabbaths. It is reached with a short walk from the centre, and the atmosphere — especially on misty days — is genuinely evocative. The lanes of the historic centre, narrow between grey stone houses with carved doorways, are a fascinating labyrinth: covered passages, steep stairways, fountains dripping ice-cold water. The oldest houses date to the thirteenth century.

The Collegiata and the churches

The Collegiata of Nostra Signora Assunta, in the upper part of the borgo, preserves a black stone baptismal font from 1397 and several works from the Ligurian school. Around the borgo are other minor churches and votive chapels, testifying to the deep religiosity that coexisted, paradoxically, with the witchcraft accusations. The church of San Bernardino, just outside the centre, merits a stop for its fifteenth-century frescoes.

Hiking in the Ligurian Alps

Triora is an excellent departure point for hikes in the Ligurian Alps. The trail that climbs to Monte Saccarello (2,201 m), the highest peak in Liguria, is a classic requiring about four hours of walking through larch and beech forests, with panoramas that on clear days embrace both the sea and the Alps. For those seeking more accessible routes, the ancient larch forest above Realdo makes for an enchanting walk completed in a couple of hours.

What to eat and drink

The cuisine of Triora is straightforwardly mountainous, far from the seafood of the coast. Forest and pastoral products take centre stage:

- Bruss: a cream of fermented cheeses with an intense, pungent flavour — spread on farmhouse bread it is an experience for adventurous palates.

- Pane di Triora: the borgo's bread-making tradition is ancient; the naturally leavened loaf, baked in wood-fired ovens, has a crisp crust and a fragrant crumb that keeps for days.

- Porcini mushrooms: in autumn the surrounding forests yield abundant harvests; you find them sautéed in oil and garlic, in sauces for fresh pasta, or simply grilled with oil and parsley.

- Chestnut and sausage stew: a robust winter dish that speaks of the borgo's bond with its chestnut groves.

To drink, Ormeasco di Pornassio DOC is the valley's red wine — full-bodied and tannic, perfect with meat and cheese dishes.

Getting there

Triora is reached by car from the Ligurian coast along the SP548, which climbs the Argentina valley from Arma di Taggia. The drive takes about 40 minutes and is scenic, with hairpin bends offering views over the valley. The nearest railway station is Taggia-Arma (Genoa-Ventimiglia line), from which infrequent buses depart. Free parking is available at the entrance to the borgo.

From the A10 motorway, exit at Arma di Taggia and head inland. The nearest airport is Nice (about an hour and a half away) or Genoa (two hours).

When to go

The best period runs from May to October. Summer offers cool respite from the coastal heat, with temperatures rarely exceeding 25 degrees. Autumn, with its foliage colours and mushroom season, is perhaps the most magical time. The night of All Saints' Day sees the Stria-Fest, with historical re-enactments, performances, and themed tastings that draw visitors from across the region.

Winter can be cold, with occasional snowfall that makes the borgo even more evocative but requires adequate tyres. Spring, with wildflower blooms in the alpine meadows, is ideal for hiking.