Night trains: rediscovering Europe by travelling slow

Written off for years, Europe's night trains are enjoying a second youth. And they're perfect for anyone who practises undertourism, the philosophy of slow travel and of the destinations no one puts on a cover.

Why by night

Travelling by night means arriving rested in the heart of the cities, skipping the airport and its queues, and — above all — reaching smaller destinations that the low-cost flights ignore. The train stops even where there's no terminal: in the valleys, in the border villages, in stations that seem suspended in time. Every intermediate stop is an invitation to get off.

The rebirth of the night train

Leading the revival are the Austrian railways ÖBB with their Nightjet network, which has been investing in new carriages for years and links Austria to Germany, Italy, Belgium and the Netherlands. From Vienna you can reach half of Europe in a couchette, and alongside the historic operators new independent players are emerging, like European Sleeper, the Belgian-Dutch cooperative that connects Brussels to Prague via Amsterdam, Berlin and the splendid Elbe valley. The picture keeps shifting: some routes close as subsidies are cut, others are born, the sign of a lively sector in transformation.

Fewer emissions

There's also a good reason to choose the rail beyond the romance: the environmental footprint of a train journey is far lighter than that of an equivalent flight. Less flying means fewer emissions, and it pairs naturally with a way of travelling that is more respectful of places and of the people who live in them.

Practical tips

A few practical tips. On board you usually choose between three options: the seat, cheap but uncomfortable for sleeping; the couchette, a shared compartment with basic bunks, an excellent compromise; and the sleeper car, more private and comfortable, sometimes with an en-suite. It's worth booking well in advance, because the sleeping berths sell out fast and the best fares disappear early. Bring earplugs and an eye mask.

Slower, yes. But it's in slowness that you come across the places no one photographs.

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