Travnik: City of Viziers, Birthplace of Andrić, and Home to Bosnia's Finest Burek

The Forgotten Capital

For one hundred and fifty years, from 1699 to 1851, Travnik was the capital of Ottoman Bosnia — the seat of the viziers who governed the province on behalf of the sultan. Ivo Andrić, winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature, was born here in 1892 and set his novel The Days of the Consuls (Bosnian Chronicle) in Travnik — a panorama of Ottoman Bosnian society seen through the eyes of European consuls. Today Travnik is a quiet town of thirty thousand inhabitants, wedged between the mountains of central Bosnia and overlooked by most tourists racing between Sarajevo and Mostar.

From Sarajevo the drive takes one and a half hours (ninety kilometres). Buses are frequent and the ticket costs around ten marks (five euros). From Jajce, one hour.

What to See

The Medieval Fortress

The Stari Grad (old fortress) dominates Travnik from the top of a green hill. Built in the fifteenth century and extended by the Turks, the fortress has well-preserved walls, a watchtower and an inner courtyard where concerts are held in summer. The view from the tower takes in the city, the Lašva valley and the mountains of central Bosnia — a panorama that explains why the viziers chose this spot as their seat of power.

The Painted Mosques

Travnik is known for its mosques with painted floral decorations — a rare feature of Ottoman architecture in Bosnia:

- Šarena Mosque (Colourful Mosque): the most celebrated, with polychrome floral decorations on the outer walls and a bright interior with Arabic calligraphy.

- Sulejmanija Mosque: built in 1757, with a courtyard fountain and an Ottoman cemetery where the headstones tell centuries of history.

- Lukačka Mosque: smaller and more intimate, with a wooden portico that recalls rural Bosnian houses.

Ivo Andrić's Birthplace

The birthplace of Ivo Andrić, transformed into a museum, is a modest dwelling in the centre of town. The museum holds first editions, photographs, manuscripts and personal objects belonging to the writer. For literature lovers it is a pilgrimage; for everyone else, an opportunity to discover one of the great European storytellers of the twentieth century. Entrance costs 3 KM (1.50 euros).

Travnik's Burek

Travnik is considered the capital of Bosnian burek. The rivalry with Sarajevo is fierce, but many Bosnians admit — through gritted teeth — that Travnik's burek is superior. The secret lies in the pastry, hand-stretched until paper-thin, and the filling of minced meat slow-cooked with onions. Burek is traditionally eaten for breakfast, with fresh yogurt to drink.

The most celebrated buregdžinice are along the main street: Ćevabdžinica Dženita and Buregdžinica Sejo turn out burek and ćevapi from morning to evening. A whole burek costs around three marks (1.50 euros). Other local specialities: sogan-dolma (onions stuffed with meat), ćevapi served in somun with Vlašić kajmak, and trahana (fermented wheat soup).

Excursions: Mount Vlašić

Above Travnik rises Mount Vlašić (1,943 m), the «Olympus of Bosnia», with high-altitude pastures where the celebrated Vlašićki sir (Vlašić cheese) is produced — one of the most prized cheeses of the former Yugoslavia. In summer the pastures are dotted with flowers and shepherds sell fresh cheese directly from their huts. In winter, Vlašić becomes a ski resort — small, affordable, frequented only by locals.

When to Go

From April to October for the town. For Mount Vlašić, June–September (or December–March for skiing). Travnik has no developed tourist industry — accommodation is scarce but honest: a couple of hotels and a few family guesthouses at 25–35 euros for a double. The city can be seen in half a day, but combining it with Jajce (one hour away) makes for an itinerary through hidden Bosnia that is worth more than any organised tour.