Tórshavn and Múlafossur: In the Faroe Islands, Where the Wind Writes the Geography

Eighteen Islands Between Scotland and Iceland

The Faroe Islands are an archipelago of eighteen volcanic islands planted in the middle of the North Atlantic, halfway between Scotland and Iceland. They belong to Denmark but are autonomous, with their own language, their own flag, and a character forged by centuries of isolation, storms, and a nature of almost alien beauty. Here the mountains rise from the sea like knife blades, waterfalls plunge directly into the ocean waves, and villages of turf-roofed houses cling to the hillsides like creatures bracing for the next hurricane.

Tórshavn, the capital, is the smallest capital in Europe: eighteen thousand people, a sheltered harbour, wooden houses painted black with turf-covered roofs, and an old centre — Tinganes — that has served as a seat of parliament since the ninth century, when Vikings gathered here for their assemblies. Múlafossur, on the island of Vágar, is the waterfall that tumbles from the edge of a cliff directly into the ocean — an image that has become the symbol of the Faroes to the world.

What to See

Tinganes, Tórshavn

The Tinganes promontory in Tórshavn's old harbour is one of the oldest political sites in the world: the Løgting, the Faroese parliament, has met here since 900 AD. The red and black timber houses with turf roofs that make up the quarter are among the oldest in the Faroes. Walking here at sunset, with the harbour lit by the oblique northern light, is an experience outside of time.

Múlafossur Waterfall, Vágar

At Gásadalur on the island of Vágar, the Múlafossur waterfall plunges from a basalt amphitheatre directly into the ocean eighty metres below. Until 2004, Gásadalur was accessible only on foot over a mountain pass; today a road tunnel has opened the village to the world, but its sixteen remaining inhabitants carry on the same life as always. The view of the waterfall with the island of Mykines in the background is one of the most iconic in the North Atlantic.

The Island of Mykines

The westernmost island of the Faroes is a birdwatcher's paradise: thousands of puffins, gannets and petrels nest here. The path from the village to the lighthouse crosses green meadows where puffins observe you from a metre away with their curious eyes. The ferry to Mykines is subject to weather conditions — cancellations are frequent, so plan with flexibility.

Lake Sørvágsvatn

Also on the island of Vágar, Lake Sørvágsvatn (or Leitisvatn) creates an extraordinary optical illusion: it appears to be suspended dozens of metres above the ocean, when in fact it is only thirty metres above sea level. The hike from the car park to the viewpoint takes about an hour and a half and offers vertiginous views of the cliff where the lake drains its waters into the Atlantic.

What to Eat

• Ræst kjøt — Faroese fermented meat, a strong and complex flavour that divides opinion but is the essence of local cooking. Lamb is left to mature in the air in sheds called hjallur for months on end.
• Skerpikjøt — wind-dried mutton, sliced paper-thin like a Nordic cured ham.
• Freshest Fish — cod, salmon and prawns caught the same day, prepared simply. Faroese fish is among the finest in the world.
• Rúgbrauð — dark, dense rye bread, the daily staple.

In Tórshavn, the restaurant KOKS (temporarily relocated to various venues) has earned Michelin stars for its interpretation of Faroese cuisine using local ingredients. For more casual meals, Ræst serves traditional cooking and Barbara Fish House specialises in fish.

Getting There

Vágar airport (FAE) is connected by direct flights to Copenhagen (2 hours), Reykjavik, Edinburgh and Bergen. Atlantic Airways and SAS operate the main routes. From the airport to Tórshavn: about 45 minutes by car through undersea tunnels. The Smyril Line ferry connects Hirtshals (Denmark) to the Faroes in a crossing of about 36 hours via Shetland — an adventure in itself. Within the archipelago, tunnels, ferries and buses connect all the islands.

When to Go

From May to September for the longest days and the least severe temperatures (8–14°C). June and July bring near-white nights and puffin nesting season. The weather is unpredictable year-round — be prepared for four seasons in a single day. Bring waterproofs and layers. Winter (November to February) is dark and stormy but has its own austere appeal. The Faroe Islands are not a comfortable destination: they are a place where nature sets the rules and the traveller learns to listen. Those who accept them on those terms come back changed.