Autumn Long Weekends — Getaways Within 2 Hours of the Big Cities

The art of the autumn escape: close, slow, authentic

The autumn long weekends — All Saints' Day, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception and the extended weekends — are the perfect occasion for brief getaways without the prices and crowds of the main festive periods. The golden rule: stay within two hours' travel, preferably by train, and choose destinations that the large tourist flows ignore. Here are our suggestions, organised by city of departure.

From Milan (2 hours)

Bobbio (Piacenza)

The borgo of the Ponte Gobbo on the Trebbia river is one of the most beautiful in Italy and in November is wrapped in the Po Valley fog that lends it a Gothic allure. The Abbey of San Colombano is a Lombard gem. From Milan Centrale: train to Piacenza (1 hour) + bus to Bobbio (1 hour). A lunch of pisarei e fasö costs 12 euros.

Bergamo Alta

40 minutes by train from Milan, Bergamo Alta is perfect for half a day: Piazza Vecchia, the Venetian Walls (UNESCO) and the funicular. In November the historic centre is peaceful on weekdays. Polenta taragna and casoncelli in the trattorias of Città Alta from 15 euros.

From Rome (2 hours)

Civita di Bagnoregio

The dying city is spectacular in the autumn light, especially at sunset when mist fills the valley below. Admission 5 euros. Combine it with Lago di Bolsena (20 minutes): a walk along the lakefront and grilled eel. From Rome Tiburtina: Cotral bus to Bagnoregio (2 hours).

Sermoneta and the Garden of Ninfa

The medieval borgo of Sermoneta with the Castello Caetani (7 euros) overlooks the Pontine plain. The Garden of Ninfa, one of the most romantic in the world, also opens on some autumn weekends (booking required, 15 euros). From Rome: train to Latina (1 hour) + bus.

From Florence (2 hours)

Poppi and the Casentino

The borgo of Poppi with its Castello dei Conti Guidi (7 euros) dominates the Casentino valley. In November it is at the heart of the Tuscan foliage: the Casentino Forests are just a few kilometres away. A series of chestnut gastronomic events enlivens many villages in the area. From Florence: train to Arezzo (1 hour) + bus to Poppi (45 minutes).

Volterra

More austere and less touristed than San Gimignano, Volterra in autumn is magnificent. The alabaster workshops are open and visitable. The Roman theatre and the Museo Etrusco make the journey worthwhile. From Florence: direct bus (2 hours) or train to Poggibonsi + bus.

From Naples (2 hours)

Sant'Agata de' Goti (Benevento)

Described by many as the most beautiful borgo in Italy, Sant'Agata de' Goti is built on a tufa cliff above a stream. The Roman bridge, the medieval churches and the alleyways are a journey back in time. From Naples: 45 minutes by car or bus to Benevento + local coach.

Padula and the Certosa di San Lorenzo

The Certosa di Padula is the largest in Italy and a UNESCO World Heritage Site: its great cloister is the most extensive in Europe. In November it is deserted. From Naples: train to Sala Consilina (2 hours) + taxi or local bus. Admission 6 euros. Combine it with the Grotte di Pertosa-Auletta (13 euros), the only navigable caves in Italy.

From Turin (2 hours)

Saluzzo

The ancient capital of the Marquisate is an aristocratic borgo at the foot of Monviso. The Castiglia, Casa Cavassa and the Gothic churches deserve half a day. From Turin: direct train (1 hour 15 minutes). In November the restaurants serve finanziera and the original vitello tonnato.

Orta San Giulio

Lake Orta is the smaller — and more beautiful — sibling of Lake Maggiore. The island of San Giulio with its Romanesque basilica is reached by boat (5 euros return). In November the mist over the lake creates atmospheres worthy of a Romantic painting. From Turin: 1.5 hours by car. Accommodation from 50 euros.

Tips for autumn weekends

• Leave on Friday evening or early Saturday morning to avoid traffic
• Book the restaurant: in small borghi seats are limited
• Check autumn opening times for cultural sites: many close earlier
• Wear comfortable, waterproof shoes: autumn is unpredictable
• The regional train is often faster than the car (no return-journey traffic)
• Look out for local sagre: chestnuts, truffle, new olive oil, mushrooms — autumn is extraordinarily rich

Two hours is the right distance: far enough to feel somewhere else, close enough not to waste the weekend in transit.