Onomichi — The City of Cats, Temples and Literature

A vertical city between sea and hillside

On the northern coast of the Seto Inland Sea, clinging to a hill that drops steeply toward the harbour, Onomichi is one of Japan's most poetic cities. Here temples scramble through narrow alleyways, cats doze on stone steps and the view over the sea — dotted with islands and suspension bridges — shifts colour with the hours. Onomichi has no internationally famous picture-postcard sights, and therein lies its strength: it is a place where Japan reveals itself in its most authentic everyday life.

For centuries an important commercial port, the city inspired writers such as Hayashi Fumiko and directors such as Ozu Yasujiro, who set his masterpiece "Tokyo Story" here. Today it draws artists, cyclists and travellers in search of a different pace, far from the frenzy of Tokyo and Osaka.

The Temple Walk

The Onomichi Temple Walk is a path of approximately 2.5 kilometres linking 25 Buddhist temples scattered across the hillside above the city. You start at sea level and climb gradually through stone stairways, wisteria-covered passages and viewpoints overlooking the Inland Sea.

Among the most notable temples, Senko-ji offers the most spectacular panorama — reachable also by a small cable car for 320 yen — with its terrace commanding the sea and the islands of the archipelago. Jodo-ji, a 14th-century national temple, preserves a two-storey pagoda considered a masterpiece of Kamakura-era architecture. Tennen-ji houses five hundred statues of rakan (disciples of the Buddha), each with a different expression — legend has it that one of them resembles someone the visitor knows.

The beauty of the Temple Walk is that it is not crowded: even on weekends you often walk in solitude, accompanied only by the cry of crows and the scent of incense.

The Cat Alley

Neko no Hosomichi, the Cat Alley, is a short side path decorated with painted stones and small cat sculptures, the work of local artists. The real cats, naturally, are everywhere in Onomichi: they sleep on temple steps, patrol the harbour alleyways and allow themselves to be photographed with regal indifference. Onomichi's "Cat Museum" is in fact a café with adopted stray cats, where you can stroke them over a cup of green tea.

The atmosphere of the hillside quarter — with its wooden houses, tiny gardens and staircases that fork in every direction — recalls certain parts of Lisbon or Naples, but with the order and quiet that only Japan can offer.

The Shimanami Kaido: cycling over the sea

Onomichi is the starting point of the Shimanami Kaido, one of the world's most spectacular cycling routes. Around 70 kilometres long, it connects Honshu to Shikoku across six islands of the Inland Sea using suspension bridges dedicated to cyclists and pedestrians. Pedalling suspended above turquoise water, with green islands following one another and salt wind in your face, is an experience that redefines the very idea of cycle travel.

The route is suitable for all: the elevation gain is minimal and the ascents to the bridges are gentle spiral ramps. It can be completed in a full day (6–8 hours) or split over two days with an overnight stay on the island of Ikuchijima or Omishima. Bicycles are available for hire at the Onomichi terminal for around 1,100 yen per day, with the option to return them at Imabari (on the opposite side) for a surcharge.

Ramen, literature and slow living

Onomichi is celebrated throughout Japan for its ramen — a soy sauce broth enriched with rendered pork fat floating on the surface, creating an intense, enveloping flavour. The ramen shops along Shotengai, the covered shopping arcade, are a civic institution — Shukaen and Ichibankan among the most renowned, with queues that rarely exceed fifteen minutes.

The city nurtures its literary identity with independent bookshops, literary cafés and the museum dedicated to Hayashi Fumiko. For a unique experience, the U2 hotel is a former harbour warehouse transformed into a hotel-cycle lodge with a restaurant, bicycle shop and a bar overlooking the port.

Practical information for visitors

How to get there

From Hiroshima, take the JR Sanyo Line to Onomichi in approximately 1 hour 30 minutes (covered by the Japan Rail Pass). From Osaka, about 2 hours with the shinkansen to Fukuyama, then a 20-minute local train. The nearest airport is Hiroshima, with domestic flights from Tokyo and Osaka.

Visa and documents

No visa required for Italian citizens for stays of up to 90 days.

Budget

- Accommodation: from 2,500 yen (guesthouse) to 15,000 yen (hotel U2)

- Ramen: 700–900 yen

- Senko-ji cable car: 320 yen (one way), 500 yen (return)

- Shimanami bike hire: 1,100 yen/day + 1,100 yen deposit (refundable if returned to Onomichi)

- Average daily budget: €60–80

When to go

March–May for cherry blossoms (Senko-ji Park is one of western Japan's finest viewing spots) and mild weather. October–November for autumn foliage and golden light over the Inland Sea. The Shimanami Kaido is rideable year-round but best in spring and autumn.

Cultural tips

Onomichi is a city to explore on foot, without hurrying. Let yourself get lost in the hillside alleyways, step into open temples, sit and watch the sea. For the Shimanami Kaido, start early and bring water and sunscreen — there are very few refreshment stops on the smaller islands. Onomichi ramen should be eaten hot and fast, as locals do: making a slurping noise with the noodles is not considered rude — in fact, it is a sign of appreciation.