Kanazawa — Kyoto Without the Crowds, With Gardens and Samurai

The little Kyoto facing the Sea of Japan

While millions of tourists jostle in Kyoto's temples, a little more than two hours away by shinkansen there exists a city that has preserved the same feudal allure without the weight of crowds. Kanazawa, the capital of Ishikawa Prefecture, was spared from World War II bombing raids and retains intact its geisha quarters, samurai residences and one of the three most beautiful gardens in Japan.

Here time flows to the rhythm of the seasons: cherry blossoms in March, iris flowers in June, red foliage in November. And yet foreign visitors remain a minority, and walking the cobbled streets imparts a sense of authenticity that is now difficult to find in Kyoto.

Kenroku-en: the garden of six qualities

Kenroku-en garden is the green heart of Kanazawa. The name means "garden of six qualities" — spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, watercourses and panoramic views — and it possesses all of them. Developed over two centuries by the feudal Maeda lords, it extends across eleven hectares of ponds, small bridges, stone lanterns and century-old trees. In winter, yukitsuri ropes are strung from the branches to protect them from snow, creating geometries that resemble ephemeral sculptures.

The entrance ticket costs around 320 yen (just over €2) and the ideal is to arrive at opening time, when the paths are almost deserted and the morning light filters through the canopy.

The samurai quarter of Nagamachi

A short walk from the centre, the Nagamachi quarter preserves the earthen walls and canals of the old samurai residences. The Nomura House, perfectly restored, shows how a high-ranking warrior lived: immaculate tatami, a small garden with a waterfall and koi carp, gold-leaf painted folding screens. The atmosphere is intimate, worlds apart from the grand tourist castles.

Wandering the narrow alleyways you will also encounter the Saihitsuan Yuzen dyeing workshop, where you can watch the traditional kaga-yuzen silk colouring technique being practised.

Higashi Chaya: the teahouse quarter

Higashi Chaya is Japan's best-preserved geisha district. The dark wood façades conceal elegant interiors where traditional dance and music performances still take place today. The Shima teahouse, a national heritage property, is open to the public and transports visitors to the Edo period with its lacquered rooms and musical instruments.

The quarter also houses gold leaf workshops — Kanazawa produces 99% of Japan's gold leaf — where you can try your hand at decorating small objects or taste an ice cream coated in edible gold.

Contemporary art and the fish market

The 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, designed by SANAA, is a transparent circular building hosting immersive installations. The most celebrated is Leandro Erlich's swimming pool, where visitors observe one another through a layer of water as if submerged. Entry to the public zone is free.

For a different sensory experience, the Omicho market is the gastronomic belly of the city. Active for over 280 years, it offers the freshest fish from the Sea of Japan: snow crab, sweet amaebi shrimp, sea urchin. A bowl of kaisendon (rice with assorted sashimi) costs between 1,500 and 3,000 yen and is a lunch worth travelling for.

The castle and surroundings

Kanazawa Castle Park, adjacent to Kenroku-en, deserves a stop for its monumental gates and storehouses restored using traditional techniques. Nearby, the Myoryuji temple — known as Ninjadera, the ninja temple — conceals trapdoors, secret rooms and retractable staircases designed for defence against attack. Visits are by advance reservation only and conducted in Japanese, but well worth the effort.

Practical information for visitors

How to get there

From Europe, fly to Tokyo Narita or Haneda (direct flights from major cities with ANA or a European stopover). From Tokyo, the Hokuriku shinkansen reaches Kanazawa in 2 hours 30 minutes. Alternatively, fly to Komatsu airport, 40 minutes by bus from the city. The Japan Rail Pass covers the journey and is indispensable for those visiting multiple cities.

Visa and documents

Italian citizens do not need a visa for tourist stays of up to 90 days. A passport valid for at least six months is required.

Budget

- Accommodation: from 5,000 yen (hostel) to 15,000 yen (traditional ryokan)

- Meals: 800–2,000 yen for lunch, 2,000–5,000 yen for dinner

- Local transport: tourist loop bus at 200 yen per ride, or a 600-yen day pass

- Average daily budget: approx. €100 all-inclusive

When to go

Spring (March–May) and autumn (October–November) are the ideal periods. Kanazawa's cherry blossom season arrives about a week after Tokyo's. Winter brings heavy snow but also a unique charm, with Kenroku-en illuminated and snow crab at the peak of its season.

Cultural tips

Kanazawa is a city of artisans. Set aside time for Kutani ceramics, Wajima lacquerware and kaga-yuzen dyeing workshops. In ryokan, remove your shoes at the entrance, use the slippers provided and never walk on tatami with bathroom slippers. At the Omicho market, eat standing still rather than while walking — eating on the move is considered bad manners in Japan.